I have a Henry 3K Classic II that hasn't been turned on in over ten years. I
am hoping to get it on the air again. Any input or ideas on the following
questions would be most welcome:
1. What type of cleaner and lube is best for the chain drives?
::I always used white gear grease, and not much of it.
2. Should I attempt to clean and/or lube the variable inductor? It moves
very freely and looks clean, but I am a bit concerned about oxidation or
tarnish.
::In many years of operating my 3K Classic Mk III (3CX1200D7 also), I never
cleaned the edge wound roller inductor, other than maybe with a clean cotton
cloth to wipe away any minute metal filings created where the roller rubs
the ribbon. More important is the alignment of the roller to the ribbon,
and the spring contact it maintains. Mechanical shock and vibration can
knock this mechanism far enough out of alignment that it's possible for the
roller to occasionally jump the track and wedge itself between turns of the
inductor -- not a good thing. Just keep an eye on it.
3. Do the contacts that engage the fixed tune caps ever need burnishing?
::No.
3. Should I let the tube "cook" for a while before applying B+? If so, for
how long? It is a 3CX1200.
::I don't know. But that's a fair answer, since you asked "3" twice! :)
I've heard and read that it's a good idea to just let the heater run for
several minutes if it hasn't been used in a long time, but I have no real
data to back that up. If you have the pedestal power supply having a
two-position B+ switch (CW lower voltage, SSB higher voltage), maybe you
want to start out on "CW" (lower B+) before slamming the filter cap with the
4 kV.
Anything I should look for specifically? Haven't worked on a Henry before.
Seems like a pretty nice amp.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
::I was an original owner of the 3K Classic Mk III (later called a 3K
Premier, since it covers 160 meters, and previous models didn't) and other
than the obvious pain-in-the-butt it takes to QSY long distances with that
design (like from 10 meters to 80 or 160 meters, and the amount of PLATE
TUNE cranking that actually involves -- a lot), it's a pretty easy amp to
use and keep running. I had two of the ceramic doorknob caps in the plate
tank (plate LOAD padders) blow up for no reason I could ever find -- I just
replaced them and kept on going, and the replacements never failed. Maybe a
nearby lightning strike? I never found out. Replacing those parts only
takes two minutes, as they screw in -- didn't even need to heat up a
soldering iron. I think you'll find it makes 1.5kW PEP output pretty easily
with ~65W drive.
73 & have fun!
-Steve, WB2WIK/6
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