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Re: [Amps] Dedicated 220AC Wiring for Amps..

To: "R. Measures" <r@somis.org>,"Carcia, Francis A HS" <francis.carcia@hs.utc.com>
Subject: Re: [Amps] Dedicated 220AC Wiring for Amps..
From: "Carcia, Francis A HS" <francis.carcia@hs.utc.com>
Date: Fri, 14 Oct 2005 09:09:51 -0400
List-post: <mailto:amps@contesting.com>
Yup, and you want a low Z between all the grounds or you will develop large
voltages between ground systems. The worst test pulse is 6.4us rise time and
69us fall the various tests are up to 10 MHz component. 

-----Original Message-----
From: R. Measures [mailto:r@somis.org] 
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 9:06 AM
To: Carcia, Francis A HS
Cc: Paul; wa6fgi@sbcglobal.net; montytaylor@texoma.net; TexasRF@aol.com;
amps@contesting.com
Subject: Re: [Amps] Dedicated 220AC Wiring for Amps..


On Oct 13, 2005, at 12:16 PM, Carcia, Francis A HS wrote:

> You want to bond that ground back to the breaker panel to prevent  
> offset
> voltages during a lightning strike.

IF LIGHTNING WAS DC, THIS WOULD BE TRUE, HOWEVER, IT'S CLOSER TO 100KHz  
RF.

> Don't rely on the neutral balk to the
> panel. Run another lead. My building inspector wants me to use #4  
> single
> conductor. Home Depot sells it by the foot. fc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul [mailto:condor@mags.net]
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 2:56 PM
> To: montytaylor@texoma.net; amps@contesting.com; TexasRF@aol.com;
> wa6fgi@sbcglobal.net
> Subject: Re: [Amps] Dedicated 220AC Wiring for Amps..
>
> monty taylor wrote:
>
> This brings up a question I have.  I am using my pre-wired dryer  
> outlet,
> 30 amp breaker, #10 wire; red, black and white.  It has only three
> conductors and no ground wire, just; hot, hot, and neutral.  The house
> is 10 years old and code approved.  For the amp, an AL1500, I wired per
> the instruction manual for 220 Volts, hot, hot and neutral to the
> ground/chassis connection.  Now, I want to RF/AC ground the chassis to  
> a
> different 8ft copper clad ground rod.  I read that you should never
> connect neutral and ground together at any place other than the entry
> panel as a difference in voltage potential could exist.   The #10 run  
> to
> the dryer outlet is about 30 feet.  My question: Should I ground the  
> amp
> to the new rod outside my shack or not?  I have been using the shack
> with out any ground rods so far; only at the far end of all my coax  
> runs
> through lightning surge protectors.
>
> A little wordy, but I hope I get some answers.
>
> Best regards,
> Monty/WB5GLB since 1969
>
> ======================================================================= 
> ====
>
> Yes...
>
> The RF ground serves a different purpose than the power ground.
>
> I run an Alpha 77SX, and have the same power arrangement  
> 240/neutral/240
> The neutral is grounded at the power box so I get -
>
> O <->240<-> O
>  \         /
>  120     120
>    \     /
>       O
>
>
> My amp and all of the other equipment are also RF grounded with a 10
> foot copper
> pipe that is driven straight down into the dirt outside the window of
> the shack,
> plus some wire from the pipe that runs a few inches under the dirt for
> about 40 feet.
>
> Works just fine.
>
> The ground rod in the tomato garden is to get rid of RF on the  
> equipment
> - it acts
> like an RF conduit to the "resistive sponge of dirt" and keeps mics,
> keys. tuners,
> and chassis from being "hot", and keeps garbage from one transceiver
> from getting
> into the receiver of another.
>
> Paul - K2BK
>
>
>
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Richard L. Measures, AG6K, 805.386.3734.  www.somis.org
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