Here's a quote from the above website: "WARNING: These connectors
should NEVER be handled, mated or unmated when voltage is applied"
This is a good idea for any HV connector, but be aware that there are
HV connectors which can be "hot-plugged" safely. One example is the
model 8101 from Surplus Sales of Nebraska:
http://www.surplussales.com/Wire-Cable/HVWire-2.html
It's the third one down on the left. I DO NOT recommend hot-plugging,
but if you accidentally do, this one won't kill you.
It MUST be installed with the panel mount socket on the power supply
and the flying lead HARD WIRED to the amplifier (no connector on that
end). Done this way, it's about as safe as you can get.
For $15, it's cheap insurance.
73, Bill W6WRT
## partially agreed. At least with the female on the HV supply... with no
mating male
plugged into it... u can't get zapped... since the B+ is recessed almost 2"
up inside
the female. If u accidentally pulled on the male. connector... it simply falls
out.. and no
more B+ to the RF deck. [ probably better than busting the wire or damaging the
male connector... vs a screwed on connector..like the millen.
## The drawback to this is... you have to hardwire the SHORT 36" long wire,
hanging off the male plug... to the RF deck. I would need way more than 36".
I really don't like the idea of an external splice. Any ideas for a
safe..EXTERNAL splice ?
Also... you end up with this hardwired wire + male connector hanging off the
amp... which is the price u pay for safety.
## The other drawback is you only have 12" of wire on the female.. which,
again, in my
case is not quite long enough to do the job.... but could be spliced.. no big
deal,since
it's internal to the HV supply.
## I looked at these same 8101 aldens yrs ago... and never tried em for the
above reasons.
## I gave up on HV connectors.. and went to plan B... and hardwired the HV
cable at
BOTH ends. I used one of those new type of twist lock strain releief devices
that u see
on electrical box's... that will handle a huge variety of diff diameters.
Then a sta-kon
is crimped and soldered at each end. The strain relief is bif enough to
handle the
stakon . Just push it through.. and machine screw it down to where iot has to
go.
## IF the Rf deck and B+ supply can be put in the same rack.. then still
hardwired....and
No B+ wiring external to the rack at all.
Jim VE7RF
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