Amps
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Amps] SS amps watercooling

To: "'Jim Thomson'" <jim.thom@telus.net>, <amps@contesting.com>
Subject: Re: [Amps] SS amps watercooling
From: "Gary Schafer" <garyschafer@largeriver.net>
Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 20:08:01 -0600
List-post: <amps@contesting.com">mailto:amps@contesting.com>
I used to have a boat with a couple of Detroit turbo charged/intercooled
engines. The cooling loop was a closed loop of fresh water that went thru
the intercooler, engine and a sea water heat exchanger to get rid of the
heat in the fresh water loop.
Once a year the heat exchanger had to be opened up and cleaned in order for
the system to do its job cooling things properly.

If there was not enough flow thru the sea water side of the heat exchanger
it would not cool properly no mater how much flow there was on the fresh
water loop side.

Same thing that happens with your cooling system and radiator when there is
not enough air thru the radiator. You do not get enough TEMPERTURE
DIFFERENCE to absorb the heat.
Same with your intercooler, too slow a flow and the temperature difference
drops as the water heats up and so does the intercooler.

Slowing the flow thru the radiator does the same thing. It heats up the
radiator more but in this case you have fresh air to cool it. At a given air
flow and temperature the hotter the radiator is the faster that heat is
going to be exchanged with the cooler air because of the greater temperature
difference. But the overall result will be a rise in system temperature if
the air flow is insufficient.

Any cooling system will reach equilibrium if there is not enough of a
temperature difference in the collection or discharge of the medium for
cooling.

73
Gary K4FMX

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Thomson [mailto:jim.thom@telus.net]
> Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 5:13 PM
> To: Gary Schafer; amps@contesting.com
> Subject: Re: [Amps] SS amps watercooling
> 
> ##  A T stat  in an eng rad just speeds up getting the eng up to temp.
> Once
> the 190 deg F
> T stat open up, its outa the circuit.  My 2010 mustang normally sits at
> aprx
> 205 F for eng coolant.
> Low speed eng fan kicks in at 206 F..drops out at 196 F.   The high
> speed
> thresholds  are a bit higher.
> I can program them to whatever I want.
> 
> ##  For folks that have increased  GPM rate from typ 4 gpm, to as high
> as 55
> gpm, on supercharger setups,
> see  no decrease at all, maybe 1-2 degs F max, on their IATs.....=
> manifold   Intake  Air Temps.
> 
> ##  I have a PD blower on mine.  Waste of effort trying to increase GPM
> rate
> through the loop.
> Doesnt work,  u just end up circulating hot water faster through the
> loop.
> 
> ##  Loop consists of an intercooler, which is just a small rad,
> sandwiched
> between discharge
> side of the blower, and the al  intake manifold.  Al manifold sits at
> 200F
> at all times,  since its bolted to the
> AL heads, which is bolted to the AL eng block.     Block, heads,
> manifold,
> all sit at 200F.
> 
> ##  water routed through intercooler rad is routed to the de-gas 1 gal
> bottle,  ( in the top, out the bottom),
> to get rid of any air in the loop, and allow for expansion, etc.   Then
> routed   to  IC pump,, mine is 4 gpm.
> From output of IC pump, then routed to bottom of the massive  18"  tall
> x
> 21"  wide  HE.   Comes out the
> opposite corner of the HE, on top, then back to the IC rad, completing
> the..closed  loop.
> 
> ##  Increase the  GPM rate, and coolant is in and out of the HE so fast,
> it
> doesnt get a chance to get cooled
> by the air flowing through the HE.   Hence its a waste of effort.   With
> slower GPM rates, the coolant exiting
> the top of the HE is indeed cooler, BUT it also then has to flow through
> the
> IC at a slower rate.  Slower rate
> through the coolant through the IC means  the IC gets hot.   Too slow,
> and
> it ends up boiling before it exits
> the IC..which is not what you want.
> 
> ##  On the other hand, if you have an unlimited supply of cold water,
> like
> say a swimming pool, and  pump
> cold water through the IC at a fast rate, like say 20 gpm, then
> discharge it
> into the drain, and do it all with
> 1 inch OD hosing, the  IC  will extract heat like crazy from the hot air
> coming out of the blower.
> 
> ##  we measured all of this over the last 5 years.  What does work is
> super
> thick HEs, like the  3.125  inch thick
> variety,  and loads of air through em, with unrestricted top and bottom
> grilles on the front of the car,
> and also ducted hoods, to facilitate even more heat extraction.   The
> function of the IC is to extract heat from the
> 200-300 F  discharge air from the blower.  Function of the HE is to dump
> that extracted heat back to the ambient air.
> 
> ##  Its a precise juggling act  for car stuff.   But  5000  BTU is
> manageable on  a SS  water cooled amp.  If the pump failed, or
> any loss of water flow from a leak, etc,  and you would require overheat
> protection, like asap, but that is no big issue.
> or some kind of water flow  monitoring, and  or   coolant temps before
> and
> after the SS  RF deck section.   What would make
> noise is the fan on the external  rad.  But even the rad and fan and
> pump
> can be remoted else where.
> 
> Jim   VE7RF
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Schafer
> Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2017 11:53 AM
> To: 'Jim Thomson' ; amps@contesting.com
> Subject: RE: [Amps] SS amps watercooling
> 
> 
> 
> Heat transfer is determined by amount of flow and temperature
> difference.
> Slowing the flow does not increase heat transfer.
> 
> There is an old myth that having a thermostat in a car will make it run
> cooler because the heated water stays in the radiator longer..
> 
> 73
> Gary  K4FMX
> 
> > ##  Ideally what you want is for the flow rate to be FAST through the
> > heat sink and RF  deck,  to extract heat, but SLOW
> > through the rad...to dump heat.     But its all one big loop, so you
> are
> > screwed.   Only fix is a big rad, and lotsa air on the rad.
> > Other wise you will just be circulating hot water.   Think of how long
> > it takes to boil just  2 litres of water in a standard
> > 1500 W  CCS  kettle  in your kitchen...2-3 mins max.   And you cant
> use
> > vapour phase cooling with SS devices, too hot at 100 deg C.
> >
> > ##  Im sure water cooling can indeed be done with SS, but it would all
> > have to be sized very carefully.
> >
> > Jim   VE7RF
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Amps mailing list
> > Amps@contesting.com
> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps

_______________________________________________
Amps mailing list
Amps@contesting.com
http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/amps

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>