W0RUE mentions an open, modular software architecture:
>I would like to see an environment where it can be profitable for
>software vendors to sell their product in a form that is easilly
>incorporated into a custom user interface
Microsoft is promoting this right now as OLE 2.0. (The current 1.0
is NOT it.) John's description matches almost exactly what Microsoft
described when I attended their Developer's Conference road show when
it came to Dallas last month. The product (I purposely avoid the word
"standard") will be on Windows (3.1 and NT) and on Mac.
My employer is sending me to their OLE conference in Seattle next
month. No promises, but I try to keep WriteLog as close to the state
of the art as I can...
[anybody else want a free copy of the demo disk? send your mailing
address to 71034.3544@compuserve.com]
Wayne, W5XD
>From Fred Hopengarten" <lectroid!jjmhome!k1vr!k1vr@uunet.uu.net Mon Apr 12
>00:59:22 1993
From: Fred Hopengarten" <lectroid!jjmhome!k1vr!k1vr@uunet.uu.net (Fred
Hopengarten)
Subject: Traps for Hygain TH5/TH6
Message-ID: <2bc8b0e7.k1vr@k1vr.UUCP>
On 8 Apr 93 10:57:18 U, "sellington" <sellington@mail.ssec.wisc.edu> wrote:
> So what did the inside of the TH5/TH6 traps look like?
>
> Scott K9MA
Answer: To take a look, one must deal first with the little dimple in the
aluminum cylinder trap cover. Either drill it out, to permit you to slide the
cover off, or bang like hell with a piece of wood cut specially for the purpose
(a lathe will help, a
nd it will take some clever woodworking). After that, you'll discover a
plastic coil form with either copper wire (driven element) or aluminum wire
(ref or dir), with screws on each end to attach the wire to the aluminum
tubing. There will probably be l
ots of oxidation, some cobwebs, and, if you are unlucky, vegetation stuffed in
there by wasps or whatever. Forced air, soap and water, along with 3M plastic
scrubbies for cleaning pans , and elbow grease will do the job.
Buy new end caps from HyGain, as your old ones are now brittle from exposure to
the sun, and you may have broken one while trying to remove it.
Never replace the old D-shaped rings which had a screw pushing into the
aluminum tubing. Either get U-shaped clamps and use only stainless steel nuts
and bolts, or go to all SS muffler clamps, being certian the screw, as well as
the band, is SS.
Apply aluminum to aluminum conductive paste (from ICE), or Penetrox (which is
useful, though not conductive), and put the thing back in the air. There are
well-maintained TH6DXX antennas that have been in the sky for 25 years and
still beating you in pil
eups.
--
Fred Hopengarten K1VR
Six Willarch Road, Lincoln, MA 01773-5105
home + office telephone: 617/259-0088 (FAX on demand)
"Big antennas, high in the sky, are better than small ones, low."
>From Fred Hopengarten" <lectroid!jjmhome!k1vr!k1vr@uunet.uu.net Mon Apr 12
>01:06:15 1993
From: Fred Hopengarten" <lectroid!jjmhome!k1vr!k1vr@uunet.uu.net (Fred
Hopengarten)
Subject: Antenna compromises
Message-ID: <2bc8b285.k1vr@k1vr.UUCP>
On 08 Apr 93 22:31:10 EDT, "Hans Brakob K0HB" <71111.260@CompuServe.COM> wrote:
> I currently have a 204BA under a small Mosley duo-bander on 10 and 15. The
> 204 does a great job, but the Mosley does a great imitation of a leaky
> dummy load.
K1VR: K1MEM has this combination, and it has worked very well for him for lots
of years. He also has a Cushcraft 402CD on the same mast.
> If I put the whole stack up, I'll work from the top down, so the TH7 will
> block removal of either/both uppers in case it doesn't work!
K1VR: I hate to think of the strain on the mast. W7NI would probably point
out that the mast will have to have the diameter of a telephone pole. I'd
limit the mast to two Yagi's, and put the other stuff on a RingRotor.
--
Fred Hopengarten K1VR
Six Willarch Road, Lincoln, MA 01773-5105
home + office telephone: 617/259-0088 (FAX on demand)
"Big antennas, high in the sky, are better than small ones, low."
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