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From: xzk@shani.net (xzk@shani.net)
Date: Thu Aug 31 17:41:07 1995
E-mail: xzk@shani.net
Time: 16:33:39

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>From broz@csn.net (John Brosnahan)  Fri Sep  1 00:48:37 1995
From: broz@csn.net (John Brosnahan) (John Brosnahan)
Subject: Eyeglasses
Message-ID: <199508312348.RAA20994@lynx.csn.net>

>How about using "pince-nez" type eyeglasses -- a little unconventional
>in this day and age, but doing the unconventional is what contest
>innovation is all about! 
>Rich Boyd KE3Q

I would be more inclined to make a special pair of wire frames that either
attached to the outside of the headphones ala the Heil microphone technique
or some that attached to the top of the head band and folded down like the
flip down sunglasses.  This is all assuming that we are starting an
unconventional eyeglass thread--if not, please don't read this!

--John  W0UN

>From Jeff Singer <k0od@MO.NET>  Fri Sep  1 01:36:27 1995
From: Jeff Singer <k0od@MO.NET> (Jeff Singer)
Subject: Low Band Monitor DX -marathon
Message-ID: <199509010036.TAA10198@Walden.MO.NET>

   The Low Band Monitor's annual contest/dx-marathon runs from Sept 1 
through March 31, 1996. This is three separate events.
   On 160-meters the object is simply to work WAC as fast as possible.  
On 80-meters, you try to work at least 100 countries before March 31. On 
40, the goal is 150 or more countries. 
   Last year, W0ZV was first to complete 160-meter WAC on September 17th. 
K9FD worked #100 on 80-meters on October 15th, and he was also first on 
40 to work 150 countries (in just 24 days!) By the end of the season, 
N4KG had pulled ahead of Merv with an incredible 210 countries on 80, and 
232 (I think) on 40. 
   The Low Band Monitor reports monthly on this competition. If you're 
interested in the LBM, the address is P.O. Box 1047 Elizabeth, CO  80107.
Phone (303) 646-4630. I am not affiliated with it, other than as a 
    This is not a conventional contest. I sure hope the CQWW doesn't go 
to a 7 month format! Mostly, the goal is to kick up some extra DXing 
activity on the low bands, and to show off some of the *truly challenging 
DX* lurking there. (no DX nets, and few IOTAs)
       Jeff K0OD  St. Louis, MO  USA
            e-mail:   k0od@mo.net

>From km9p@is.net (Bill Fisher)  Fri Sep  1 02:52:43 1995
From: km9p@is.net (Bill Fisher) (Bill Fisher)
Subject: Summary: Marking Home Brew Boxes
Message-ID: <199509010152.VAA13180@mail1.is.net>

I hope I have all of them here.  Might have left a couple at work.  Sorry If
I left your response out.  The Brother P10 looks like the best answer in my

I'm about 80% finished with a homebrew amp, and I've decided to mark the
controls by having the local engraving shop make some nameplates for me.
They can do it on either metal or plastic -- at this point I'm leaning
toward plastic, but we'll see.  I'll mount them using silicone RTV so they
will be firmly fixed, but removable if I really want to.  It should look
pretty good done that way, I think.

If you get some good suggestions, please post them to the reflector.

73, Bill  W7LZP


You remember those old "Avery" pistol-grip type label makers everyone
used to have when you were a kid?  Technology is much better with these
things nowadays.  They have little QWERTY keyboards on them and you
program all kinds of things on them like font, type size, etc.  I think
all the catalogue stores like Best and Service Merchandise carry them,
and they are made by people like Brother.  We have a couple of them at
work and they are terrific.  I keep meaning to buy one myself!



Hi Bill, One of my other hobbies is Model Railroading. We of course use
decals on the models, but we also use decals for the control panels, the a
clear coat of spray paint. You could also go to your local art supply and
get dry transfer sheets, these contain multiple copies of the alphabet that
you rub onto your surface, then protect with a clear coat.

Hope this helps

Warren - N2BCC


If you have a good eye and are careful, I still prefer transfer lettering,
such as Letraset or Zipatone, available at any art supply store.  It's not
the quickest way to do it, but it looks the best if you're good at it. 
There are hundreds of fonts and sizes available, and it comes in a number of

There are different types of adhesive material that will work in laser
printers.  Of course, this assumes you need black lettering.  Since I
usually have aluminum panels black anodized, this method would not work for
me.  And perhaps I'm picky, but I don't think it looks all that good.  There
are also photographic labelmakers available at any office supply store - we
have one from Brother at work - that work very well.  I think they look better
than the laser printed ones.

Or - design your panel with some good graphics software, make a print, and
take it to your corner silk screening joint.  It's cheaper than you might
think, and won't wear off in the heat of battle. This is the method we've
used at KS9K.  This method is only good for finalized designs, since it
doesn't come off.  Transfer lettering can be removed with Scotch tape if it
hasn't been sprayed with clear laquer, and with proper application of a
fingernail if it has.

Good luck & 73,
Bruce WW1M


at the WPX cw @W1CW this year, Jeff showed up with a great little
device...it is a:
label printer...Jeff is single so I told him it figured he'd have one...

Seriously, it generates great easy to read peel and stick labels, if I run
into one in the store I will buy it no questions asked...we used it to make
labels for the B&W coax switches and it was perfect....you might give Jeff a
buzz at WC4E@mcimail.com and ask him if he hase been p-touching lately - he
might also tell you where he got his. 

                        73  K1ZX


Hello KM9P! I like black panels, and I do a lot of them. I had been
getting VERY good at applying white rub-on letters, but I've recently
stopped doing that. Some of the manufacturers have got a modern
equivalent now of the old dymo labellers. Some of these things even have
a typewriter style keyboard. You may have seen these things around. I
think Brother makes one called the P-Touch. These things are fairly
expensive, so I've been borrowing the use of one when needed, and the
tape cartridges come in a variety of foreground and background colours,
including my favourite, white on black.

The tape cartridges cost about $15 up here, and they last quite a while.
 It's about as expensive overall as the rub-on letters, but I think it
looks a lot better. There are different fonts and type sizes, and all
that stuff.

73..  Derrick  VE4VV/AA0PQ     ve4wnr@mts.net


I got the brother P-touch printer PT-10.
You can get one at any office supply store Staples or Office Depot.
They should have a wide selection. I got mine for about $95. 
You can wide selection of fonts and colors. Works great for the shack!



There are several address labels for laser printers that are clear and they
do look good. I think I have used Avery brand labels and there a couple of
other brands. I bought mine at Elek-Tek and have used them on several
projects. I think they look best a matt or semi-gloss finish vs a shiny
finish. I have put on a second unprinted label for protection of the print on
a label that had high traffic. I wish I could find full sheets, though, of
the material.

73, K8Joe"Palooka"


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