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Contest Cable Hangers - removal thereof

Subject: Contest Cable Hangers - removal thereof
From: 00tlzivney@bsuvc.bsu.edu (00tlzivney@bsuvc.bsu.edu)
Date: Tue Sep 12 10:58:03 1995

Pete wanted to know of a source of cheap cable hangers.  I want to know
how to REMOVE the darn things (for reuse) - I purchased some surplus
RG389 coax with heavy duty hangers on each end of the eighty foot sections
the problem is that they point towards the ends so that when installed
in a vertical direction, one will pull up and the other down - I want
to remove the bottom one and turn it around so it also pulls up -
I can push the contraption together so that I can slide it around but
the ends of the hanger are still too small to slide over the huge
connectors on the ends of the cable.  The "free end" of the hanger
is terminated in a khaki snap hook.

Terry Zivney, N4TZ/9
00TLZIVNEY@bsuvc.bsu.edu

>From Tony Brock-Fisher <fisher@hp-and2.an.hp.com>  Tue Sep 12 16:02:17 1995
From: Tony Brock-Fisher <fisher@hp-and2.an.hp.com> (Tony Brock-Fisher)
Subject: Egg Insulators
Message-ID: <9509121502.AA26257@hp-and2.an.hp.com>


I used 27.5 feet as the magic number for guy wire breakups, and had
problems with detuning on 20. I have a fixed KT34XA mounted just below
a guy bracket on rohn 45. The guys caused the SWR to go above 2:1
on 20 meters. I tested the theory by temporarily removing the guys
from the guy anchors and bringing them in alongside the tower. One guy,
the one most parallel to the driven element, was causing
most of the problem. To solve the problem, I put about 6 big ferrite
beads on the top section of the guy, located at the middle of
the 27 foot length. Problem solved!

-Tony, K1KP, fisher@hp-and.an.hp.com

>From Jim Hollenback" <jholly@hposl62.cup.hp.com  Tue Sep 12 16:18:35 1995
From: Jim Hollenback" <jholly@hposl62.cup.hp.com (Jim Hollenback)
Subject: Contest Cable Hangers
References: <199509121406.HAA14021@ix3.ix.netcom.com>
Message-ID: <9509120818.ZM1504@hpwsmjh1.cup.hp.com>

On Sep 12,  7:06am, Pete Smith wrote:
> Subject: Contest Cable Hangers
> Taking my cue from Dave Leeson's book, I went to buy some of the
> Chinese-finger-trap cable hangers at my local electrical supply the other
> day.  Dave, when you said "expensive," I had no idea!  For the simplest
> ones, to hold 1/2 inch cable, they want $15 apiece!!!
>
> Does anyone know of a more reasonable source?  Or is this about par?  They
> look like they couldn't cost more than a dollar each to fabricate...
>

When Dave mentioned them at a club meeting I thought that was a neat idea.
When I discovered the cost of the cable hangers exceeded the cost of the
cable I wanted to string up, I looked for a different solution. There is
a thing called a wedge clamp and is used to hold overhead runs of elecitrcal
cable. It has a small U shaped top that has a wire ring in the back. Over
this U is a larger wedge shaped U that fits over the top U. The length of the
clamp is about 6 to 8 inches, the ring adds anothre 6 inches or so. The cable
goes between the two U's and the wedge shape clamps the cable. They are made
from aluminum and cost about $3 or $4 each. I got mine at an electrical
contractor supply house. I got some sized for RG-8 and from another source I
got some sized for RG-58. After being is service for over a year, I did not
see any damage to the cable. I recommend these for a lower cost alternate to
the chinese finger puzzle clamps.

73, Jim, WA6SDM
jholly@cup.hp.com

>From Jeffrey Clarke <jdclarke@freenet.columbus.oh.us>  Tue Sep 12 16:07:41 1995
From: Jeffrey Clarke <jdclarke@freenet.columbus.oh.us> (Jeffrey Clarke)
Subject: WM4T Sprint score
Message-ID: <Pine.3.07.9509121141.A28890-b100000@acme>


  WM4T   operated by KU8E   in KY

  Team : Mad River #1


  Band             QSOS
----------        --------

 80                 76
 40                105
 20                 57
-----------------------------

Total              238   x   43 multiplers  = 10,234 


comments   After the disasters of the last 2 sprints (broken antennas) 
           everything worked this time !!! 80 and 40 meters were pretty
           good but 20 was not (band was too long). Thank You John , WM4T
           for the use of the station.



           BTW to throw my 2 cents in about the Der*/ club call operators
           I think what it showed is that the sprint elite are not only
           VERY good operators but, also have a tremendous propagation
           advantage over the rest of us (especially those of us in the 
           midwest) They probably could of run 100 watts and wire antennas
           and still kick our butts........


           CU all in the phone sprint next weekend from W8FN. Hopefully
           the propagation gods will give us the freak conditions that 
           we had last time but I doubt it !!!

 
                                             Jeff KU8E

 ******************************************************************
 *      Jeffrey D. Clarke   jdclarke@freenet.columbus.oh.us       *
 ******************************************************************




>From Larry Tyree <tree@cmicro.com>  Tue Sep 12 16:46:36 1995
From: Larry Tyree <tree@cmicro.com> (Larry Tyree)
Subject: Guy wires, beads and beverages (no Dereks).
Message-ID: <199509121546.IAA10414@cascade.cmicro.com>


I remember hearing 20 or 21 feet was the magic number.  It is confusing 
hearing all these different numbers.  I ended up doing overkill.  I 
used 10 foot lengths except near the ends of the guy wires.  I was
real concerned about side mounted antennas working, and wire antennas 
that might be parallel to the guy wires.

I liked the idea Tony presents: using RF beads.  I have thought about 
using them to "break up" an electric fence I have which prevents me from
running a beverage along the edge of my property.  I guess they
would have to be spaced every quarter wave or so.  This isn't a lot of
beads to make a beverage possible (I can even do multiple turns).  

Maybe with some tricks, I can use the same wire for the electric fence!

When I want to listen on 160, I can remotely turn off the fence charger, 
switch a relay to connect the line to a transformmer, and use a bead
a quarter wavelength from the corner and another one at the corner.
The termination resistor would go across the first bead.  

                                               Rt
       ---o                                  |-/\/\-| 
          Xo------------------------------------B----------B  Bead
          o  Relay                             Bead        |
          |                                                |
          |                                                |
          |                                                |
          |                                                |
          |                                                |
        Fence
        Charger

          <--------------------about 600 feet-------------->

A different twist to the question, "Can I use electric fence wire for
a beverage?"  Rest assured, I will use real antenna wire, not the steel
stuff.

Can anyone think of any reason this wouldn't work?  Could the quarter wave
stub be at a right angle to the rest of the beverage so I could make the
active part of the beverage a quarter wave longer?  I estimate the height 
would be 4 feet or so...  maybe a little low for a beverage, but I don't
have to worry about people running into it.  I might have another wire 
in parallel below it, which I would detune with the beads every quarter 
wavelength.  

Thanks for any input.

Tree N6TR
tree@cmicro.com




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