After reading the recent post from K1VX re:
placement of a PL-259 onto CATV hardline, I
decided to pull the following out of my
archives. Jims method looks very good &
listed below is just anouther way of doing
the job that i have used for yrs.
The procedure below is for use with 3/4
inch CATV line.
STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE-
1- GET A COPPER (OR BRASS) REDUCTION FITTING
MADE TO THREAD ONTO A PC OF 3/4 IN
THREADED PIPE. THE OTHER END IS MADE TO
SOLDER ONTO A 1/2 IN COPPER PIPE.
2- REMOVE ALL EXCEPT THE CENTER CONDUCTER OF
THE HARDLINE FOR A DISTANCE OF ABT 3" FROM
THE END. THEN REMOVE THE "BLACK JACKET" IF
U HAVE IT FOR ABOUT 2IN FROM END OF SHEATH.
3- NOW SLOWLY THREAD THE COPPER FITTING ONTO
THE SHEATH BY GOING A TURN OR SO THEN
BACKING OFF & GO ANOUTHER TURN TILL U HVE
CUT ENOUGH THREADS TO ALLOW ALL THREADS
ON THE COPPER FITTING TO BE USED.
LIGHT OIL AIDS IN THE THREADING PROCESS
AS DOES HAVING SOMEONE OR THING TO HOLD THE
COAX STILL WHILE THREADING. ALTHOUGH I HAVE
DONE MANY OF THESE ALONE AND ITS NO BIG DEAL.
THE ADAPTER IS MADE TO ACCEPT A WRENCH SO
THIS GIVES LEVERAGE IN THE THREADING PROCESS.
4- CLEAN ALL FILINGS ETC FROM AROUND THE NEWLY
THREADED END WHEN COMPLETE.
5- NOW, TAKE PIPE CUTTERS & CUT OFF A PIECE
OF 1/2 IN COPPER TUBING 1" LONG OR JUST LONG
ENOUGH TO FILL THE RECESS RECESS IN THE
REDUCTION FITTING PLUS ABT 1/8". PUT SOME
SOLDERING PASTE ON THE 1" PC & PLACE IT ALL
WAY INTO THE FITTING SO THAT THE END THAT
WAS CUT WITH THE PIPE CUTTERS IS PROTRUDING
OUT THE END OF THE FITTING.
6- GET A GOOD PL259 & REMOVE THE CENTER PIN BY
DRILLING IT OUT WITH A BIT LEAVING A HOLE BIG
ENOUGH FOR THE CENTER COND OF CATV LINE TO
"JUST" SLIDE THROUGH.
7- NOW CLEAN (WITH A FINE FILE) THE OUTER SURFACE
OF THE BACK END OF THE PL259 (THE END THAT
NORMALLY SCREWS ONTO JACKET OF RG-8)
8- NOW SHOVE THE REAR END OF THE PL259 UP INTO
THE END OF THE 1/2 INCH TUBING. NORMALLY THE
SWAGE DOWN THAT WAS CAUSED BY THE TUBING CUTTERS
WILL MAKE A NICE FIT FOR THE PL259, IN FACT U
MAY NEED TO "REAM" IT A LITTLE FOR A SNUG FIT.
PLACE ALL BUT ABOUT 1/8 IN OF THE BACK OF THE
PL-259 INTO THE FITTING.
9- ONCE U HAVE IT SO IT FITS SNUG, PLACE WHOLE
THING IN A VICE WITH THE PL-259 END POINTING
DOWNWARD GIVING ACCESS THROUGH THE BIG
THREADED END DOWNWARD. NOW USE A TORCH & "SWEAT"
OR SOLDER THE JOINT, AS YOU WOULD WHEN DOING A
NORMAL WATER PIPE BEING CAREFULL NOT TO GET
THE PL-259 TOO HOT. APPLY SOILDER TO THE
JUNCTION OF THE OUTER EDGE OF THE PL-259 &
INNER EDGE OF THE TUBING PLUS THE JUNCTION OF
THE OUTER EDGE OF THE TUBING & THE INNER
SURFACE OF THE ADAPTER. BE CAREFULL NOT TO GET
ANY SOLDER DOWN INSIDE THE PL-259 WHERE IT MAY
LATER CONTACR THE "CENTER CONDUCTOR" OF THE
HARDLINE.
10-NOW THREAD THE FINISHED PRODUCT ALL WAY ONTO
THE COAX SHIELD & MARK THE CENTER CONDUCTOR
WHERE U WANT TO CUT IT SO ITS THE RIGHT LENGTH
TO BECOME THE "NEW" CENTER CONDUCTOR OF THE
PL-259.
11-REMOVE THE FINISHED PRODUCT & CUT THE CENTER
CONDUCTOR & ROUND OFF THE END WITH A FILE &
ALSO REDUCE THE DIAMETER A LITTLE AROUND THE
END SO IT'LL FIT BETTER INTO A SO-239 LATER.
12-CLEAN ALL PARTICLES ETC FROM THE COAX & PUT
SOME "NO OX" OR "CONDUCTION GREESE" ON THE
THREADS AND SCREW IT ON & TAPE THE JOINT
BETWEEN THE SHIELD & THE FITTING. THIS
COMPLETES THE PROCESS.
THE "SCREW ON" PORTION OF THE PL-259 NEVER
COMES OFF DURING THIS PROCESS UNLESS U WANT
TO TAKE IT OFF WHILE DRILLING OUT THE CENTER
OR FILING THE REAR BUT DONT FORGET TO PUT IT
ON B4 U LIGHT DE TORCH !!
73 de Ed KG4W
>From Tom Francis <tomf@neca.com> Sun Apr 28 17:16:53 1996
From: Tom Francis <tomf@neca.com> (Tom Francis)
Subject: Rohn SS series towers
Message-ID: <199604281616.MAA29502@orion.neca.com>
Hi folks and thanks for reading this post....
Gave up on the tubular tower idea for my second
tower after reading comments from this reflector
so decided to solicit some more advice....
Anyone on the reflector have any experience
with the SS series of Rohn tower? Any better
than 45? Is it hard to install?
Any information would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks es 73...
Tom, NM1Q (tomf@neca.com)
>From Dan Robbins <kl7y@alaska.net> Sun Apr 28 19:14:20 1996
From: Dan Robbins <kl7y@alaska.net> (Dan Robbins)
Subject: loose guy wires
Message-ID: <9604281814.AB18029@alaska.net>
Many hams do seem to leave their towers with loose guy wires. I have never
seen a tower that failed because the guys were too tight. This failure mode
would cause a buckling of a leg at the very bottom of the tower where the
compression stress is the greatest. All the failures I have seen were
bendovers at the midpoint or higher, usually due to guy failures,
excessively steep guy angles or loose guys. The top of your tower should be
solid with no sway or twist. You could breakdance on a top of a properly
guyed tower, they're that solid. Personally, I would hate to miss a CONTEST
because one of my stupid towers fell over.
Dan KL7Y
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