On Fri, 19 Jun 2009, Michael Coslo wrote:
> Getting my Vitara set up for HF, I've gone through some of the regular
> items, like bonding, and ferrites, and now have a few questions about
> mitigating the remaining issues.
>
> 1. I have some ignition noise I'd like to get rid of. The engine
> doesn't have the old fashioned plug cables. There is a cover on top of
> the valve covers that I assume has to be the place where the coil on
> plug setup is.
>
> My first question is, Is it possible to shield a whole side (it's a
> V-6) by applying a metallic covering to that cover? Would aluminum or
> copper be a better choice? I have a roll of adhesive backed aluminum,
> but if copper is superior, I might just go for the better metal. I'll
> be trying to shield it this way unless It is of no use.
Some folks talk about using conductive tape over the COP housing. If I
were going to bother (high labor investment) I would use adhesive back
copper foil shielding tape. As I understand it, the adhesive is
conductive to tie the strips together, and the copper can be soldered to,
to add a short jumper to the block.
That being said, I have not bothered. I have a 2000 Jeep with the inline
6, it is both COP and per port FI. What I originally though was plug
noise turned out to be mostly fuel injector noise.
I did manage to get 3 type 31 snap-ons (.4 in ID) on the leads going into
the COP bar (small improvement).
A much more noticable improvment was when I placed 2 snapons on the leads
of each of the injectors.
There is still a little buzz, but mostly ignorable and handled by the NB.
This is after bonding work though, the first 90% of the noise was already
gone after bonding
1) All doors including tailgate to body tub.
2) Body tub to frame at all 4 corners
3) Exaust pipe just after manifold join, middle and 18in from end to frame
4) Engine block to frame, both sides
5) Hood to body tub, both sides
6) Fenders/front clip/etc back to tub
I also removed and cleaned all the existing under-hood bonding. (Stainless
brush, no-ox-id and star washers where needed. And replaced the pathetic
factor ground. The original ground was a #6 from BATT - to block with a
#10 takeoff to the FW (and a couple very light braid straps from head to
FW. Current setup is now #4 BATT - to block, and #6 to frame and
firewall.
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