A MFJ G5RV with a tuner works well, The cost about 440.00 AND GOOD FOR 10 TO
80. I rum a LDG auto tuner with good results. 73 Jim N7INO
--- On Wed, 1/12/11, Stuart Rohre <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
From: Stuart Rohre <email@example.com>
Subject: Re: [TenTec] What about antenna wire? What to buy?
Date: Wednesday, January 12, 2011, 11:45 PM
Many wires will work at 100 watts. For stealth and durability, stranded
no. 22 light blue insulated hook up wire will work if your feedline is
supported to not put weight upon the flat top wires, (elements) of your
dipole. You could also use up to no. 14 ga conduit wire, insulated in a
light blue to blend in against the sky, if it is in the back yard, and
less visible, therefore from the street.
Even bare stranded no. 14 wire, widely available, and at Radio Shack, as
well as at ham suppliers like The Wireman, and Coaxman, will make a low
profile dipole. The bare wire eventually oxidizes black, but that does
not affect the conduction which is under the coating. If you have
soldered your feeder connections, that is, when the wire was new and
shiny. 14 Ga. can support twin lead or ladder line feeder strain
relieved to a center insulator.
For end and center insulators, I have used for Field Days for year,
white vitamin pill bottles. You can punch holes to hold a synthetic
line halter for the end tie offs, and two holes to pass the end of the
dipole element through. Or course, more durable plastic insulators
could be made from PVC 1/2 inch plumbing fittings, or commercial ceramic
insulators can be purchased from the Wireman or Coaxman or ham
distributor stores. Make sure to buy glossy, glazed ceramics if going
that route. Another way to secure end halters to the pill bottle is to
simply drill the cap, and knot a line inside the cap, pass the line thru
the hole and screw the cap on the bottle. Then you only need two holes
in the bottom of the bottle sides for the loop of the wire element.
Don't worry about the inductance of the loop of wire, it will only add a
capacitance hat effect, as it connects, (solders) back onto the standing
part of the end of the wire element.
For your line to hold up the ends, pick a UV resistant material. Nylon
will stretch, and work for a couple of years, but you might as well
spend a little money on the better line materials that will resist UV.
The white plastic pill bottles hold up pretty well, but are easily
replaced if they tear in a wind, or decay due to weathering. Ceramic
insulators, if not dropped on hard surfaces, should last longer than
your antenna wire, and feedline. I use some from 54 years ago, at the
start of my ham career.
Home center stores usually have anything you need to make a very
workable and economical antenna.
GL and 73,
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