Rick I have after soldering painted the soldered joints with Scotchkote. I
guess silver solder would be better but a pain.
73 Clive GM3POI
-----Original Message-----
From: Topband [mailto:topband-bounces@contesting.com] On Behalf Of Richard
(Rick) Karlquist
Sent: 12 October 2016 15:53
To: Topband@contesting.com
Subject: Topband: Soldering radials?
I'd like to get the latest thinking from the group on soldering radials.
What I currently thinking is as follows:
SOLDER SELECTION:
1. Tin lead doesn't hold up in the weather.
2. "Stay Brite" 3% silver solder (97% tin, no lead) is known to work well,
but is expensive, and has a considerably higher melting point than 63/37.
3. Lead free plumber's solder obviously works in water pipes, but does it
hold up outdoors in the rain? What is the melting point?
FLUX SELECTION:
1. Pure rosin. Hardest to work with, but minimum corrosion issues.
2. Activated rosin. Easier to work with. What corrosion issues are there?
3. Acid core plumber's flux. Very easy to work with, very corrosive. Does
this hold up in the rain, etc?
(I remember the dire warnings that Heathkit manuals had about not using acid
core solder, but I guess that doesn't apply to radials.)
CRIMPING?
Has anyone tried crimping as an alternative to solder?
Rick
N6RK
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