My original post on this subject had more than was propagated on the
reflector, so I am resending it in its entirety.
As long as we're on the subject of HAM (CDE) style rotors, let me
expound on the greatest improvement since their invention:
C.A.T.S.'s Quick Disconnect modification. For the paltry sum of $15
(or so) you get a QD weatherproof connector assembly with 8 sets of
gold pins and sockets.
It is about a half hour installation (the rotor has to come down,
and the cable probably should, too; those pins are really small), but
the next time you have to pull the rotor, you will want to kiss
Craig. Well, maybe not, I've met him at Dayton.
Those terminal strips (what an apt title!) were never designed for
outdoor use . By the way, there are two kinds of people; those that
have had ball bearings from HAM style rotors all over the floor, and
those who have never opened up a HAM style rotor. Usually you only
do it once.
I have no affiliation with C.A.T.S., but even if I did, I would
still trumpet this because A) it is a great idea, and 2) that concept
of weaseling about affiliations is stupid.
I would also like to talk about color coding. I know that we
techno-weenies love to incorporate our knowledge into our practices,
and the resistor color code has long been used for color coding
rotors and other devices for years. However, after getting tired of
trying to explain to some non-techinical people (wife) and forgetting
the color code as I got farther and farther away from building, I
devised the following: alphabetical.
The advantages are: most (isn't that sad) people already know it, it
works even with wire that has colors not in the RCC, you don't have
to remember the RCC.
To use, just take the two heavier conductors (if there are any in
your cable) and attach them to pins 1 and 2 (alphabetically), then
take the remaining wires and attach to pins 3 through 8,
You'll never forget. Just remember to send $10 to me every time you
73, Rod N4SI
The DXer formerly known as N9AKE
(c) 5 November, 1996
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