I believe the product is called: Rustoleum Rust Reformer. I've used it
successfully on several tower-related and non-tower related projects.
> In a message dated 97-03-09 20:07:37 EST, email@example.com (Dave Hawes)
> > Unfortunately, the holes in the plates are
> > not large enough to pass the bolt from the clevis, so merely
> > repainting the existing plates is not an option.
> Hi, Dave --
> Why not wire brush them and then use one of the rust converter
> products? It'll react with the rust and neutralize it while putting a tough
> coating on the steel. Before you do that, drill out the holes so that it
> will take an appropriate clevis then you don't have to replace ANYTHING.
> Personally, I'd rather not make any more work for myself than I have to.
> BTW, TOWER TECH has the Rustoleum Rust Converter ($8.00 for 8 ozs.).
> > The issue of safety in this project is two-fold:
> > 1. Detaching the existing guy wires, one a at a time, to do the
> > work on the attachment plates, and
> > 2. Unbolting the plates and replacing them.
> > As to Issue #1, I believe that the AB-105 tower is robust enough to
> > withstand this kind of maneuver. In fact, I have detached one top
> > guy wire many times to allow my large yagis to pivot down to the
> > tower using a "PVRC (tm) Yagi Mount." I see no reason why removal
> > of intermediate guy wires, one at a time, should present any
> > significant danger, but am interested in opinions. Of course, the
> > work would be done in calm wind conditions to minimize the potential
> > for buckling forces.
> You'll want to slack off the remaining guys on the same level while
> leaving them attached because you don't want to put unnecessary forces on the
> other tower legs.
> > Regarding Issue #2, it is important to note that guy attachment
> > plates mount on top of the splice plates at each tower juntion.
> > Replacement of the plate requires unbolting half of the bolts at the
> > splice!
> > Concern: Structural stability of the tower. Probably not a worry,
> > since the splice plate has six more bolts holding the joint stable.
> > Concern: Settling of the tower section. This is my real fear. I'm
> > not so sure that the tower sections are actually butting. I think
> > that the bolts at the splice plate are in shear and taking most or
> > all of the dead weight load of the tower. If I take the bolts out,
> > even of just half of the splice plate, especially at the 47 foot
> > level, and the tower settles, I might not be able to get the holes
> > lined up again. In that event, I can visualize (in my nightmares)
> > having to jury rig some kind of jack to separate the tower sections
> > far enough to get the bolt holes lined up. (I'm pretty sure a drift
> > pin would not have the mechanical advantage needed for the job, but
> > then again it might.) This would not be able to be done right away,
> > and the tower could be left in a dangerous condition for some period
> > of time while a workaround is developed. Not a happy thought.
> > I would appreciate any insights other owners of or maintainers of
> > AB-105 tower might be able to provide on this subject. I'm hoping
> > my fears as described above are merely overreaction, but better safe
> > than sorry. I fully realize that this is a very, very narrowly
> > focused question, and apologize for the bandwidth. However, this
> > reflector is a great resource, and I figured it was worth a shot,
> > especially since this is essentially a safety related issue.
> The leg joint brackets are very substantial and will keep things intact
> enough that you should be able to remove half of the bolts to replace the
> brackets. Loosening all of the guys will minimize the downward compression
> forces on the legs while still providing enough tethering to hold the tower
> up. Refinishing the existing brackets will avoid this problem completely.
> Your drift pin is all you need to get the holes lined up again. Pound
> it in with a hammer and then you'll be able to put most of the bolts back in.
> Don't forget that the bolts go OUT through the legs so you can secure the
> nuts on them. It looks like there's less than 1/8 inch gap between the
> sections of my AB105 so you're not talking about a lot of movement.
> 73 and GL, Steve K7LXC
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