We have used this method for 14 years, and NEVER had water in our connectors
on commercial antenna installations:
1. ditto on using Scotch 33+ only-wrap the connectors with the tape going up
2. Seal right over the tape layer with coax seal.
3. Wrap additional layer of coax seal with second layer of tape-be sure to
seal again right to the cable.
This enables you to take the wrap off later-just cut through the seal with a
razor knife-it peels right off no matter how cold, etc. No goopy mess, and
the connectors can be taken apart to move or check power levels right at the
We use the DB products Vapor Seal, which is a little more expensive than
coax seal, but it comes in sheets so that you can just wrap around once on
the cable. Faster that a small roll like coax seal, so it's worth it in the
long run, especially when you have been on a roof or tower all day.
Try it , and you'll see how nice it works.
At 07:50 PM 3/23/97 -0500, K7LXC@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 97-03-23 18:25:12 EST, email@example.com writes:
>> Personally, having been at the mercy of the elements in outdoor cable
>> installs, I've learned (the hard way) that a weatherproofed connector is
>> worth the price of peace of mind and the ease of disconnect/connect while
>> maintaining circuit integrity.
>> The mylar types (and like connectors) are NOT made for outdoor
>> applications and will suffer from the effects of sun, wind, rain,
>> pollution etc. Plus the resistance of the pins can increase which makes
>> life *very* interesting! (Especially at 3am when it's snowing and the
>> damn rotator wont run well! HEH)
>> It's worth spending afew bucks more to not have that AWW )(*&() feeling
>> when Murphy visits (And he will! )
> There is no reason to suffer from weather-induced connector problems.
> Of course the primary culprit is water getting in connector joints.
> Commercial installations go for years and don't have any problems; with a
>little, you can do the same thing.
> Regardless of the type of connector joint or termination, you CAN keep
>the elements out of your sensitive electrical connection.
> The problem most people make is to use cheap electrical tape; don't you
>fall into the same trap. Scotch 33+ or Super 88 are the ONLY electrical
>tapes you should be using. They adhere like crazy (you can put it on a wet
>boom), are good for temperature extremes, have incredible conformity and are
>highly water and UV resistant. Put two layers on your joint.
> Next, put a real butyl rubber vapor wrap over the joint. And I don't
> Add two more layers of tape over the vapor wrap and make sure that the
>last wrap goes UP. That way the layers will overlap like the shingles on
>your house; install the tape going down and the water will run right into the
> Other TowerTalkians will recommend that you put the vapor wrap directly
>on the joint saying that will further ensure watertightness. The advantage
>of a commercial vapor wrap is that you can get it off in the future. The
>disadvantage of CoaxSeal is that you can NEVER get it off; you'll have to
>throw the connector away because it'll be a wad of useless goop.
> A nice final touch is to coat the outer tape either with some ScotchKote
>or spray it with some clear urethane.
> This joint will be virtually 100% reliable.
> If you haven't already guessed, TOWER TECH has all of these professional
>73, Steve K7LXC
> TOWER TECH -- professional tower supplies for amateurs
>FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/towertalkfaq.html
>Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
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