Date: Fri, 18 Apr 1997 09:40:11 -0500
From: DONNIE MURRAY <firstname.lastname@example.org>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (Win95; U)
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Re: Ground Rods
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Barry Kutner wrote:
> On 18 Apr 97, Jerry K. Liley <email@example.com> wrote:
> > Dear Jay,
> > I see someone already told you about the "EASY" way to sink ground rods.
> > The water method "really" works in Missouri. It takes more than a cup
> > of water but a bucket full should do the job. I usually dig a small
> > hole where the rod is going and pour a quart of water in the hole. That
> > way you can keep the hole full and it will self- feed the water down
> > along the ground rod. Don't get in too big of a hurry doing this job.
> > Let the soil have time to soak up the moisture. Somewhere around the
> > four or five foot depth, pull the ground rod all of the way out and fill
> > the hole again. Go get a cup or coffee or a soda and let it soak for 10
> > or 15 minutes. From that point on, you will not need anymore water. I
> > have found the need to take a hammer and drive in the last two feet
> > simply because I could not get enough pressure on the rod by hand. Wear
> > some gloves because blisters will appear quickly and be cautious when
> > pushing the rod in on top of the water else it will squirt back at you
> > with vigor.
> Question and comment re ground rod insertion:
> Comment - I've read that the "water method" is not a good idea
> because the soil is not in tight contact with the rod, and the
> decreased surface area of contact increases the electrical
> resistance, diminshing the rod's effectiveness.
> Question(s) - Are these post hole drivers available at Home Depot
> type stores? We have a lot of shale down at about the 4-5 ft level.
> Any tips how to get through it? I've used the sledge hammer method in
> the past, and sometimes can manage to break through, other times not.
> 73 Barry
> Barry Kutner, W2UP Internet: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Newtown, PA FRC alternate: email@example.com
> FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/towertalkfaq.html
> Submissions: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com
> Problems: email@example.com
I HAVE SANDSTONE AT 4-1/2 FEET. I SACRIFICED A $6.50 DRILL BIT FOR EACH
GROUND ROD. USING A FRICTION SAW OR A THIN GRINDING DISC, CUT THE DRILL
BIT IN TWO AN INCH BELOW THE HEX SHAPED END THAT FITS INTO AN IMPACT
DRILL, ALSO KNOWN AS A ROTARY HAMMER DRILL. AFTER GRINDING A BEVEL ON
EACH END OF THE GROUND ROD, AND ON THE TWO ENDS OF THE DRILL BIT WHERE
THEY WERE SEVERED, WELD THE CARBIDE TIPPED, FLUTED DRILL BIT HALF ON ONE
END AND THE HEX SHAPED HALF TO THE OTHER. WHAT YOU HAVE NOW IS AN 8 FOOT
LONG DRILL BIT. AFTER SINKING THE ROD,(MY SANDSTONE WAS TWO FEET THICK)
DONT WORRY ABOUT CUTTING THE HEX OFF. MAKE YOUR CONNECTION ON THE COPPER
CLADDING OF THE ROD. THE HEX IS CERTAINLY NOT AS SHARP AS THE MUSHROOMED
HEAD OF A HAMMERED ROD.
FAQ on WWW: http://www.contesting.com/towertalkfaq.html
Administrative requests: towertalk-REQUEST@contesting.com