There have been several different versions of motors put out, so I'm
probably not familiar with the one you are running. However, on my 1022B's
when I did some work on the motors, I noticed the great amount of side load
on the pots. By working the holes out alittle on the bracket, I managed to
cut that down to where it is just enough to provide a comfortable mesh
between the gears. So far I'vehad some jumping of the indicator, but no
out and out failures.
73, Ty K3MM
broz@csn.net on 10/01/97 06:22:46 PM
To: k3lr@frogger.lm.com, towertalk@contesting.com
cc: (bcc: Tyler G Stewart/BENN/CEC)
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] TIC Problems Buzz
At 04:05 PM 10/1/97 -0400, k3lr wrote:
>This is for Billy AA4NU and others who have had this problem. I know I
>have! If the TIC control box buzzes when you want to rotate, the
>problem is the pot at the rotor end. Take wires 3, 4 and 5 off and put
>a 500 ohm pot in its place at the control box. This will allow you to
>move the rotor. It could be just some dirt, but as W0UN pointed out,
>the pots that TIC uses isn't the best. I know it is not meant to be
>used outside. There is a real condinsation problem. I replace all pots
>at the rotor end every 2 years as a prevention against what will
>happen in the middle of a contest. As John pointed out, the pots are
>available from Digi-Key.
>If anyone figures out a better 2 watt, 10 turn pot for the rotor, I
>sure would like to hear about it.
>
>73!
>Tim
>K3LR
I called TIC yesterday (1-800-TIC-RING) and we played phone tag
today but they left a message saying that they had gone to a
Bourns pot and found it to be more reliable and would send me
one out at no charge. (No model number in the phone message.)
Will be interesting to see how the Bourns unit holds up--looks like
the problem may be the side force from the springiness of the sheet
metal that is used to provide a constant pressure on the (fine-toothed)
gears. I don't think the Clarostat is very happy with the amount
of side preload.
73 John W0UN
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