You can buy all the replacement pins and connector parts you want from
Digi-Key 800-344-4539 or Allied radio 800 433 5700. There not expensive.
Steve W8GAZ Minnetonka MN
-----Original Message-----
From: K7LXC
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 1998 10:19 PM
To: steve; 'kg5u@hal-pc.org'; 'towertalk@contesting.com'
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Rotor Connector
In a message dated 98-01-27 19:20:35 EST, kg5u@hal-pc.org writes:
> Before I put it up on the tower this weekend (or later this week if I
> can't stand it anymore), what's the consensus of the group about
> installing the connector? Yea or Nay?
The connector is used by CATS and was used by Hy-Gain. They are not
easy
to wire but do work okay when you're done. If you screw up, you need a
pin
extractor to get the pins out. Hy-Gain sells more spare pins than you can
believe for people who have messed them up.
I think they've changed to a more conventional pigtail and
Cinch-Jones
plug recently because of the problems.
The CATS rotator end version mounts directly into the place where
the
terminal strip used to be. It's okay except if you're using a
mast-mounting
bracket. Then you have to grind it out so that you'll have enough
clearance
for the plug.
Hy-Gain uses a 12 inch pigtail.
>
> The thought of disassembling the rotor when it is in such pristine
> condition really is abhorrent to me...enough so that I stopped at the
> local electronics parts outlet (actually, that's it's name: Electronic
> Parts Outlet) on the way home this evening and picked up some coax
> seal material.
Please tell me you're not going to use it? If you insist, wrap
whatever
you're working on with 33 or 88 Scotch electrical tape and THEN put the
coax
seal on. I've seen plenty of rotator terminal strips where the CoaxSeal
was
applied directly. What a mess.
Be careful when disassembling the rotator for "bearing fall-out"
because
they will.
>
> Am I making the rotor a white elephant by installing the connector?
> Now that I am at the starting gate, an inline connector starts to
> sound like a more reasonable alternative.
Once you've put the connector on, you're mostly commited to it for
subsequent rotators with that cable end.
What you can do if you want to sell it or install it somewhere else
is to
cut the rotor cable a couple of feet from the rotator. Then you can
always
splice it to another cable run. Crimp butt connectors or
soldered/shrink-tubed
methods both work.
Personally I use the terminal strips and just replace them the next
time
the rotator is worked on (because it will be). They're expendable and
easily
replaceable.
73, Steve K7LXC
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