As someone who maintains a sailboat with a 50 ft. aluminum mast and fairly
heavy rigging (picture trying to keep a 50 ft. tall soda can erect). I have
found that "anti-seize" compound (available at Auto Parts stores) seems to
work really well on turnbuckles. The turnbuckles used in this marine
application are "fine threaded" stainless steel and live in a salt-water
environment. I suspect the loads might actually be higher than most towers.
(For example the headstay is 7 X 19 strand - 5/8" SS. Towers distribute the
load(s) over multiple sets of guys but I have no "real" data on the
loading.) What I have observed is that the turnbuckles are easier to deal
with using the Automotive "anti-seize" than with standard grease. Over the
last 20 years I have tried both and use the "anti-seize" exclusively now.
By the way I also use a LOOS gauge to check the tensioning on the "standing"
parts of the rig... (no electronics in this "rig").
Just a thought. Your mileage may vary.
It's always a good idea to use grease on turnbuckles and run it through its
length before you install them, even if the turnbuckles are new. WD-40 will
in the near term, but grease will last for years and ease the adjustment you
have to make when you make that quarterly inspection of the guys.
Richard L. King wrote:
> At 08:32 AM 6/19/98 -0500, you wrote:
> <stuff deleted>
> > The turnbuckles are
> >Rohn galvanized turnbuckles I latched onto from a Rohn 55 tower
> >installation. They are extremely hard to turn with my hands...and I
> >use a open end wrench (I hate crescent wrenches...knuckle busters) to
> >the turnbuckles. I could never see then turn and I watched them from
> >months. They never moved.
> I recently had an interesting observation on re-using Rohn turnbuckles.
> When I starting putting up new guywires here in Texas, I wanted to re-use
> the turnbuckles that I had taken down from the station in New York. I
> that many of the turnbuckles were very hard to turn. If fact, after
> some of them a little ways they would freeze up. I was afraid that
> them beyond that point might damage the turnbuckle.
> So I got out the WD-40 and started spraying and turning the turnbuckle
> and forth. After a while I was able to work out the binds to the point
> where the turnbuckles turned free over its entire length like a new one
> I don't know if there was dirt in the threads or some kind of galling
> occurring but the WD-40 and a little patience got them all back in shape.
> guess my point is that a turnbuckle that is hard to turn doesn't
> necessarily have to be that way and safety cables should be ALWAYS
> 73, Richard
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