Couldn't figure out a consistent way to put all the 90 degree bends in, so I
went with weldable #4 rebar and cut it with a skil saw and cutoff wheel. No
big deal, but I did use up three cutoff wheels at about $2 each. My cages
are all welded. Probably better to bend them, but I don't expect my anchors
to come apart anytime soon - they are in 2/3 cubic yard of 3000 psi mix,
with rebar every 12" all directions. One is sitting entirely in sandrock,
and the hole for that one took 2 days with a rented jackhammer. If they come
out, that one will come out last. :-)
73, Jerry W5KP
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Coleman <firstname.lastname@example.org>
To: Mike Gilmer - N2MG <email@example.com>; <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2001 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] rebar cages
> On 8/28/01 10:22 PM, Mike Gilmer - N2MG at email@example.com wrote:
> >It appears that they (Rohn) want four vertical #6
> >rebars (one near each corner) with horizontal ties of
> >#3 every 12 inches.
> That's right.
> >The drawing shows each horizontal tie as being one
> >continuous piece of rebar wrapped around the
> That's probably the easiest way to do it.
> >Is there a significant difference in the
> >strengths of these two arrangements?
> I don't see where you find the second arrangement. The horizontal rebar
> is typically one continuous piece.
> > Looks to me that
> >having separate bars would be far easier to construct
> >although using them would likely yield a somewhat
> >less stable cage - at least when out of the concrete.
> You've obviously never had to cut rebar.
> I made mine entirely out of #4. It's much easier to bend the rebar around
> in a square than it would be to make all those cuts.
> Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
> -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
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