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[TowerTalk] NoAlox

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Subject: [TowerTalk] NoAlox
From: (
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 06:54:34 EDT
In a message dated 10/15/01 4:11:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
     I found some No Alox at Lowe's on a bottom shelf.  Look in the electrical
 aisle(s) and the two Lowe's I've been in had it on a bottom shelf.  I've also
 used the GB No Ox or Anti Ox with good success.  They usually carry it in 
like a
 1 oz and 4 ounce or maybe 8 ounce tube (about the size of a squeeze tube of 
 latex bathroom caulking).  Its similar to the "Butter Its Not" anti ox 
 with antennas years ago by the Butternut folks when I had an HF6V.  I use 
 enough NoAlox to dull the shiny aluminum finish with a real think coat.  Some
 folks may also disagree, but I also usually take some 0000 superfine steel 
 and gently smooth the aluminum tubing and wipe it down with an old towel or 
 before putting on the anti-ox.  Gotten rid of a few burrs, etc. that way.
 Tom, WW5L
 Larry Stowell wrote:
 > For information noalox is no longer carried at Home Depot. They looked it 
 > on the computer and said it was discontinued. Found some anti-oxidant at
 > Lowe's made by GB haven't opened the tube yet. I didn't that there was
 > enough with the c31xr, but as I move along I think I'm wrong. I happened to
 > be reading the achieves about noalox and came across a comment by Guy(K2AV)
 > about applying a "thin" coat. I think I'll have plenty.
 > 73's
 > Larry WA2SRY

Cleaning the telescoping mating areas of aluminum before coating with any of 
the greases is a good idea.  

QST had a bit in Hints&Kinks at least 40 years ago of how to use regular 
solder to solder aluminum plates togher.  The basic idea is this.  On the 
area of the plate where attachment is to be made do this.  With at least a 
150W or more iron, make a solder pool there.  Then scratch the aluminum 
surface under the solder pool thoroughly.  Then join.  What's happening is 
this.  Aluminum oxide forms real fast after scrapping dry.  Scrapping under 
the sodler pool keeps the air off the freshly scrapped surface which would 
oxidize almost immediately without the pool.

I think I'd clean the surfaces thoriughly dry.  Then I'd coat it with No OX 
and scrap it with Crokus Cloth.  This should really clean the surfaces then 
join.  I will try this and with my HP very low resistance Ohm Meter I'll 
measure the R of the joint with and without cleaning initially and later.  

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