In a message dated 10/15/01 4:11:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time, firstname.lastname@example.org
I found some No Alox at Lowe's on a bottom shelf. Look in the electrical
aisle(s) and the two Lowe's I've been in had it on a bottom shelf. I've also
used the GB No Ox or Anti Ox with good success. They usually carry it in
1 oz and 4 ounce or maybe 8 ounce tube (about the size of a squeeze tube of
latex bathroom caulking). Its similar to the "Butter Its Not" anti ox
with antennas years ago by the Butternut folks when I had an HF6V. I use
enough NoAlox to dull the shiny aluminum finish with a real think coat. Some
folks may also disagree, but I also usually take some 0000 superfine steel
and gently smooth the aluminum tubing and wipe it down with an old towel or
before putting on the anti-ox. Gotten rid of a few burrs, etc. that way.
Larry Stowell wrote:
> For information noalox is no longer carried at Home Depot. They looked it
> on the computer and said it was discontinued. Found some anti-oxidant at
> Lowe's made by GB haven't opened the tube yet. I didn't that there was
> enough with the c31xr, but as I move along I think I'm wrong. I happened to
> be reading the achieves about noalox and came across a comment by Guy(K2AV)
> about applying a "thin" coat. I think I'll have plenty.
> Larry WA2SRY
Cleaning the telescoping mating areas of aluminum before coating with any of
the greases is a good idea.
QST had a bit in Hints&Kinks at least 40 years ago of how to use regular
solder to solder aluminum plates togher. The basic idea is this. On the
area of the plate where attachment is to be made do this. With at least a
150W or more iron, make a solder pool there. Then scratch the aluminum
surface under the solder pool thoroughly. Then join. What's happening is
this. Aluminum oxide forms real fast after scrapping dry. Scrapping under
the sodler pool keeps the air off the freshly scrapped surface which would
oxidize almost immediately without the pool.
I think I'd clean the surfaces thoriughly dry. Then I'd coat it with No OX
and scrap it with Crokus Cloth. This should really clean the surfaces then
join. I will try this and with my HP very low resistance Ohm Meter I'll
measure the R of the joint with and without cleaning initially and later.
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