In a message dated 10/16/01 6:23:15 AM Pacific Daylight Time, email@example.com
> 150W or more iron, make a solder pool there. Then scratch the aluminum
> surface under the solder pool thoroughly. Then join. What's happening is
> this. Aluminum oxide forms real fast after scrapping dry. Scrapping
> the sodler pool keeps the air off the freshly scrapped surface which would
> oxidize almost immediately without the pool.
> > k7gco
I once saw an article that suggested using oil to keep the oxide from
re-forming long enough to make the solder joint. Unfortunately, I can't
recall where I saw the article. Probably in QST sometime in the last 15 to
20 years [guess that really narrows it down, hi hi]. I've never tried it.
I do remember seeing a vendor at a hamfest selling "welding" rods that would
allow you to weld aluminum with a propane torch.
Dan Evans N9RLA
Scottsburg, IN 47170
IN-Ham list administrator
1/2 of the N9RLA /R no budget Rover Team
Check out the Rover Resource Page at:
I can't see how oil would allow the solder to stick. A pool of solder would
be the best air damn. The Flea market solder is great stuff. I solder
elements together with it for ZERO maintenance and they have lasted about 9
years now. No Anti Corrosion Grease of any kind is needed or are SS clamps.
You never wonder if the "RF Clout" from the beam is down if you don't get
them on the 1st call as you usually do! Did you ever notice how well the
beam worked when the joints were new? I will publish something on this how
to get the best joints that looks like regular solder this winter. K7GCO
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