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[TowerTalk] Experience with Yaesu G-1000DXA Rotor?

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Subject: [TowerTalk] Experience with Yaesu G-1000DXA Rotor?
From: (Pete Smith)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 09:04:59 -0400
At 07:50 AM 10/23/01 -0400, Mark Pride wrote:
>Been an owner of the G1000DXA for few years.  Only one small problem due to
>nearby lightening hit, took out the potentiometer inside the rotor.  Fairly
>simple replacement at around $23 for the part and about 45 minutes of
>labor.  Followed W1WEF's method for dismantling the rotor - great!
>Just purchased another G1000DXA  as a backup and was surprised to find the
>control box has changed (improved) considerably.  Some additional
>adjustments are now available to calibrate, and computer control (with an
>optional piece).  In the purchase of the new one, was hoping to be able to
>simply swap out one control box for another - surprise!  The connector has
>changed, so my previous control cable connector no longer fits.  Have to
>put on the new 6 pin plug (small, rectangular type, about 1/4 the size as
>the earlier version).

I understand that the "A" models were introduced to meet European CE
standards, mainly requiring a separate safety ground conductor between
control box and rotator.  My old SDX only needed 5-wire cable (see below)

A couple of other changes.  The indicator motor no longer drives the
pointer around to the counter-clockwise stop when the control cable is
disconnected.  Instead, the "overlap" light goes on regardless of the
position of the rotator.  And the position at which the overlap light goes
on can be adjusted -- the old units used a non-adjustable mechanical cam
and a microswitch.

If you look at the schematic diagram of the control box the "A" units are
significantly changed and much simplified from the old design.

Jerry Darby at Yaesu told me that the G-800SA (non-preset version) actually
only uses 4 wires out of the 6-wire plug and cable specified.  He also said
that the DXA preset models only use 5 (but I don't remember which wires in
either case - a call or a careful look at the schematic would probably be

Those Molex connectors they are now using at the control box can be a pain
-- they are crimp-on type, and once you have assembled the plug they are
almost impossible to repair if one or more of the wires comes loose...

73, Pete N4ZR

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