I solder the connectors the way Dave does.
I also tin the braid prior to inserting the coax into the PL-259. I use a
cutter to remove the braid that I don't need. That way the braid is easier to
solder to. I also put a few drops of flux in each of the 4 holes and have at.
Still not a lot of fun, but it appears to be effective.
David O Hachadorian wrote:
> My observations on soldering PL-259's:
> 1. Use Amphenols. I have seen too many goofy mechanical
> discrepancies on the off brands (thin/fat/long center pins,
> teflon insulators that pull out, insulators that melt,
> short thread engagement on the shells, unexpected corrosion
> on "gold" center pins). I like the cheap Amphenols that
> you can get for a buck, individually wrapped in plastic
> packaging. The packaging keeps then nice and shiny. Maybe
> some of the off brands are ok, but I think
> they vary from batch to batch. If you can get shiny Amphenols
> for a buck, why screw around with the others?
> 2. Use a helper when soldering. Have her hold the coax and
> rotate it around to the four holes while you are soldering.
> Using a helper allows you to keep the iron in continuous
> contact with the connector, keeping the heat up.
> 3. Don't try to get hole number 1 soldered perfectly
> right away. Just drop some solder on there and hold the iron
> on it for a while to improve heat transfer. Go on to the
> other three holes, and solder them perfectly (by now, the connector
> will be hot enough to do a good job). Then, go back
> and finish soldering hole number 1. By this time, the entire
> connector is very hot, and you can go around 360 degrees and
> give it a smooth professional-looking finish.
> The cardinal rule is: Never remove the iron from the connector
> until the entire job is done.
> A 150 watt gun is plenty, if you have a helper.
> Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
> Yuma, AZ
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