One thing to add to this, (the use of the plastic pail is paramount) but
donot let the metal parts touch!! You just might have cathodic protection
of one over the other.
In a large potash mine disaster, completely flooded with water, the thought
of the lose of equipment was tantamount. However, all the large rotary
miners were protected by all the zinc parts, eg handles, injectors, fuel
lines, etc, The main engines were very clean.
Chris opr VE7HCB
At 04:48 PM 2002-07-31 -0400, Joe Reisert wrote:
>Here's a quicker (time wise) solution to checking materials for corrosion.
>Take a large plastic container of water and add some rock salt (like we
>use on the ice and snow here in New England-or in water softeners in San
>Jose hi). Not too scientific but it works.
>Just put the hardware in the solution and see what happens. If it rusts
>out in a week, look for better hardware! You could also add some stainless
>steel hardware at the same time just to use it as a time gage. It
>shouldn't show any changes.
>At 10:10 AM 7/31/2002 -0400, K7LXC@aol.com wrote:
>>In a message dated 7/30/02 1:21:37 PM Pacific Daylight Time, email@example.com
>> > I am considering the use of pin shackles in my guying
>> > system and am wondering if anyone has any info to
>> > offer regarding the quality/durability of those one
>> > can purchase from Lowes/HomeDepot etc. I'm concerned
>> > that they will end up rusting/corroding severely in a
>> > short time (even though they "look" galvanized).
>> Buy one and leave it out in the backyard for a couple of months and see
>>what happens. If it really rusts, chuck it over the fence.
>> Generally shackles/clevises aren't the weak links in the chain so some
>>surface rust won't hurt anything. If you're really concerned, get one the
>>next size up. A good rule of thumb for shackle size is to double the wire
>>size; i.e. 3/16" EHS uses a 3/8" shackle.
>> I've found virtually all shackles useful - even the cheap Chinese ones -
>>and haven't had any reason not to use them.
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