I am used to the opposite - since I use RG213 which is skinnier OD than
RG8....one of the tricks we use is to build up the shield by first tinning
it and then soldering some very light gauge telephone type wire "wound"
around the shield to create a fatter OD...also using a brass collar piece
from a plumbing tubing fitting works very well - it is almost the perfect
size to slide over a tinned 213 shield and increases the od of the ground to
just the right size for an amphenol PL259...
I think we should cover how many times each of us has seen the connecting
pl259's thread that has been covered on this reflector over and over - kind
of like our own merit badges for how long we been reading the mail! Special
bonus badges for enduring True North and Fake Owl and Wasp Nest threads...
TT-Scout Badge with Owl Cluster
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2002 7:27 PM
Subject: [Towertalk] Soldering PL-259s (agn)
> In a message dated 7/11/02 16:34:36 Central Daylight Time, firstname.lastname@example.org
> > I cannot put the connector barrel on to the RG-213 if there's too much
> > tinning.......
> And there's the rub. Just Lightly tin the braid. As you've observed; Too
> is not a good thing, as usual.
> BTW.... I've read some folks favoriable opinions (here and in other
> about using a BIG iron on PL-259s.
> I use a 40W iron with a heavy, pyramid shaped tip. Works every time!
> I also tin the braid and center conductor and then go do something else
> while. Once the coax has cooled I heat the PL-259 with a heat shrink gun
> paint stripper gun works too) screw it onto the coax, and solder it on.
> been using the RS silver solder lately and really like the way it flows
> looks (nice and shiny).
> "Fairly small" diameter solder (.032 is about the smallest I'd use) is
> easier to work with in the small holes on the connector. Neither really
> stuff, nor the larger dia solder work well for me.
> A few more unsolicitated tips:
> Keep the iron clean and tinned.
> Make sure the braid is nice and shiny when you start. If not, cut a few
> inches off and try again. Try to cut the coax where you can use the
> manufacturer's writting on it to as a reference when you measure where to
> make your cuts.
> If you use the back of a thin knife heated with a torch you can remove the
> jacket and center insulation very cleanly without damaging any strands....
> Plenty of ventilation required (I go outside). I make the initial cut with
> heavy, very sharp, utility knife trying to just cut through the outer
> and the braid, without disturbing the center conductor. If the knife isn't
> sharp enough it will tend to snag strands of the braid, pull them out and
> fold them into the center conductor. If you see this; Cut off an inch or
> sharpen your knife, and start again.
> DO NOT touch the braid or center conductor with your fingers. The oils
> up will not help you.
> Make sure everything is CLEAN.
> Use a damp cloth or sponge to clean the iron when it first gets hot. After
> that use a dry rag between soldering joints. I love it when my xyl gets
> washcloths. I get the old ones. I wash them with TSP and a bit of bleach
> then dry them on a clothesline or in the dryer with NO fabric softner.
> one lasts quite a while. When I was a kid I frequently used my jeans to
> the iron.... First time you're at the bench in shorts will break you of
> When you're finished; Turn the iron off, wipe it with a damp rag or sponge
> then a dry cloth, and tin it well.
> I have a table lamp on my work bench. If a soldering iron is on the lamp
> on too. Makes it harder to wander off with the iron on. I've intended to
> the irons and the lamp on a switched set of receptacles, but never have.
> had some irons ruined by leaving them on all night, and others not
> at all... The tip has to be replaced though. Haven't had an "incident"
> adding the lamp many years ago.
> Have fun,
> Don - K4BEV
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