between the two, i'd use the crane, the cheapest route involves using two
pieces of 2x4, a cheap auto jack, and $5.00 worth the rope from wal-mart. a
56 foot rohn tower ain't that heavy...gill
>Subject: Towertalk digest, Vol 1 #565 - 3 msgs
>Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 12:04:53 -0400
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> 1. Re: Supressors that pass DC control V. (Jon Ogden)
> 2. Re: Crane or Gin Pole? (firstname.lastname@example.org)
> 3. Re: Used TH6 recommendations needed (Jim Idelson)
>Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 08:12:45 -0500
>Subject: Re: [Towertalk] Supressors that pass DC control V.
>From: Jon Ogden <email@example.com>
>To: Bob Wanderer <firstname.lastname@example.org>, <email@example.com>,
>I was thinking about this again this morning while laying in bed waking up
>(no idea why - I guess I just have a twisted mind!).
>The original poster wanted a suppressor that would pass DC through the
>center conductor. You say that Polyphaser has done this. That may be
>but there's another problem. In virtually all suppressors, the center
>conductor is somehow DC connected to ground as well. Therefore, even if
>find a suppressor that is DC coupled, you still can't pass DC on it! The
>only thing that would work is just a straight gas discharge tube to ground.
>But then you don't get any of the beneficial benefit of draining static off
>the center conductor, etc. So putting a bias tee on the antenna side of
>suppressor is really the way to go here, IMHO.
>Secondly, about Smiths buying PolyPhaser and un-ham-friendly rules - that's
>too bad. I must say that Smiths does do a pretty decent job though of
>leaving companies they buy alone for the most part. I currently sell for
>two Smiths owned companies that sell RF related stuff. While there were
>changes, I am genuinely surprised at how transparent things have continued
>to run. For a "large" company, they do a pretty good job.
>on 9/27/02 8:07 PM, Bob Wanderer at firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
> > PolyPhaser does. It is a non-catalog item or "special." I
> > don't know if Poly does specials anymore. I created several
> > of these specials in, I think, 1996 or 1997. The part
> > number, therefore would be 96(7)-xxxxA-(letter). The xxxx
> > would be a month-day numeric. As an example, if the
> > paperwork got approved on November 4, 1997 and it was the
> > first one I did that day, the part number would be
> > 97-1104A-A (if it were the second the last character would
> > be a B and so on and so forth). See if you can get ahold of
> > either Tricia Eaton or Pat Heeren. They were around in the
> > good ole days (before Roger sold Poly to Smiths Industries
> > who instituted some ham-UNfriendly rules) and I think
> > they're still there. If you do get one of them, tell them I
> > suggested contacting them and you need one of the ham radio
> > specials I created.
>NA9D (ex: KE9NA)
>Life Member: ARRL, NRA
>Member: AMSAT, DXCC
>"A life lived in fear is a life half lived."
>To: TOWERTALK@CONTESTING.COM, email@example.com
>Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 07:14:04 -0600
>Subject: Re: [Towertalk] Crane or Gin Pole?
>Sounds like a LOT of EXPENSIVE additions to this FREE? tower.
>Also, the BX series is pretty LIGHT WEIGHT with a small load
>capacity. Why bother?
>IMHO, the SAFEST, STRONGEST, and most COST EFFECTIVE
>antenna support is a properly GUYED TOWER (such as R25).
>If you don't want to guy, then get a HEAVIER DUTY self supporting
>tower. Might as well get some safety and load improvement if you
>are going to shell out for a concrete base (and crane?).
>If you *still* want the BX, you should be able to easily 'man handle'
>each 8 ft section using a pulley and rope to lower the sections
>to the ground. I did that very procedure to dismantle and HDBX
>tower (the heavier duty version).
>On Fri, 27 Sep 2002 "Jeff Burns" <firstname.lastname@example.org> writes:
> > I am still trying to decide if I want the free tower that has been
> > offered to me. If I do take it what is the best way to take down a
> > tower?
> > I have contacted a ham that does tower work. He will charge me $150
> > if I help with the groundwork. He uses a gin pole. I forgot to ask if
> > had insurance, and I am skeptical about doing the groundwork.
> > I also contacted the local sign company. They charge $90 an hour for
> > their crane. They were supposed to have someone drive by and take a
> > and call me back, but I have not heard from them. If I do go with the
> > what can I do to minimize the crane time?
> > Jeff Burns
> > AD9T
> > _______________________________________________
> > AN Wireless Self Supporting Towers at discounted prices,
> > See http://www.mscomputer.com
> > Wireless Weather Stations now $349.95. Call Toll Free,
> > 888-333-9041 for additional information.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Towertalk mailing list
> > Towertalk@contesting.com
> > http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
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>Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 10:11:51 -0400
>From: Jim Idelson <email@example.com>
>Subject: Re: [Towertalk] Used TH6 recommendations needed
>To: TowerTalk Post <firstname.lastname@example.org>
>Organization: DesigNET International
>Resending in propoer format.
>The TH6 is a great antenna! You should definitely try to use it. But beware
>of a couple of things:
>1. It's a big one for roof mounting . . . be careful of obstructions and
>do your best to BALANCE the antenna at the boom to mast clamp. This will
>make life much easier on your roof mount and rotor and it will make it
>easier for you to install.
>2. The U-bolts may not be easy to find locally in stainless steel. There
>are several sources out there - I use a company called FARMTEK for some.
>right there on the page under Hog Brackets and Accessories. You can also
>order replacement hardware from HyGain, but you will probably have to find
>out the equivalent part number in today's TH7DXX manual, and you might have
>to wait for delivery. Be flexible about the U-bolt sizes. Your trusty
>electric hand drill may help you accommodate a slightly different U-bolt
>that's easy to find. Oh, yes, when using stainless steel, be aware that the
>nut and bolt can seize when tightened down. This is a common problem and
>best remedied with "anti-seize" compound - easily available at your local
>Home Depot. It is silvery paste, a bit messy, time consuming to apply, but
>it is well worth the time and effort when you take that baby apart in a few
>3. Do you have the manual and all the dimensions? I'm sure you can find an
>electronic version of the manual from a friend here on TowerTalk.
>4. Those of us who have had experience with tribanders at lower heights
>will tell you a few things. 1) The tribander at any height above 20 feet
>will definitely work better than the vertical, and 2) there's a BIG
>difference between 20, 30 and 40 feet. You really will do better at 30 or
>40 than at 20 feet. Can you swap the TH6 with the quad? That would be cool,
>and it wouldn't hurt the quad performance at all, 3) beware that when your
>tribander is very close to the house, its performance may be affected by
>metallic objects nearby, like inside wiring, metallic gutters, and
>foil-covered insulation in the attic, and 4) RFI in the shack can be a big
>problem when the antenna is that close. As the number of wavelengths
>between the shack and the antenna decreases, you get into more and more
>trouble. To deal with this, get the antenna as high as you can, use a balun
>on the antenna [does the TH6 use a 4:1 balun?], and be prepared to do some
>RFI reduction inside the shack. While these!
> suggestions definitely apply if you are running an amplifier, you can
>still experience difficulties running barefoot. So, just beware!
>5. This point should be noted FIRST. You might have electrical service
>entering the house in the air on one of the corners. As you well know,
>electrocution is never the goal, but occassionally the outcome. With such a
>big antenna being waved around on the roof durning installation, that
>service entry is a major concern. Be careful - real careful.
>Great antenna! Great deal! Use it well.
>Jim Idelson K1IR
>Towertalk mailing list
>End of Towertalk Digest
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