Anti-Seize is readily available from an auto parts store - the NAPA down
the street from me has a nice sized container with a brush attached to
the lid - should last the average ham several years easily...I also
highly recommend greasing the Rohn overlaps - BUT - swab the inside of
the female (upper) tube - this way you ground crew can stay ahead of the
needed section as opposed to having to worry about the exposed goo
landing in some dirt of grass clippings, etc. and their only being able
to grease it up immediately prior to raising the section - note that by
greasing the inner tube any extra goo should go up into the middle as
opposed to out onto the place where you grab and step [not a good thing
with slippery stuff]...
Note - the last tower install we did we had a production line set up -
one guy (Dad, W1CW) had a dowel with a rag wrapped around it and he
used it to clean out any possible crud inside the legs from messing
things up - the sections then were gooed up with the lid brush of
antiseize - do not be real worried about strict uniformity of
application - since it is on the inside it will get pushed along the
inside surface as the section is mated...
We were fortunate enough to have the use of an electric winch for that
job - talk about suhweeeet, it had a variac and a reversing switch on it
- once the section started going up the lucky motor control guy (me)
opened up the variac for full "throttle" - as it got close to the top I
slowed it down until the tower man said "whoa" - then would change
direction of the motor and slowly lower it on down... the top man had to
do a little bit of wrastlin mating the sections. Those on the ground
assisted him in boosting the gin pole up every ten feet - bottom line
was it was not all that physical - like Dad always said:
"...you need the right tool for the right job"
...if anyone happens to have a Braden Winch available I would like to
know where they found it - since I saw that unit, let's just say it was
love at first sight!
73,
Jim, K4OJ
Ward Silver wrote:
>Regarding coating bolts to prevent either seizing or rusting, I've had very
>good results from both bicycle chain lube (comes in a handy squeeze tube, too)
>and wheel bearing grease. Both are designed to be used in demanding, exposed
>applications and stay put.
>
>Also, gooping up tower joints (bearing grease is cheaper) makes that next
>section slip right on (or off, much later).
>
>73, Ward N0AX
>
>
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