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[TowerTalk] Wilson MT-61A Crankup Tiltover and Tailtwister Rotor

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Subject: [TowerTalk] Wilson MT-61A Crankup Tiltover and Tailtwister Rotor
From: "Dave KW1M" <>
Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 14:11:50 -0400
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I have a Wilson 61A telescoping crankup tubular tower with self standing 
tilt-over base with rotor plate at the bottom of the tower stand.  It is 18 
years young but was only used for 4 years due to multiple relocations.  The 
remainder of the time it has been in dry garage storage due to antenna 
restrictions.  Will include a CDE Tailtwister T2X rotor with control box that 
was used with tower.  Total package in very good condition.  All parts included 
with the exception of anchor bolts and manuals.   Owner of this setup will be 
able to perform full tower maintenance and antenna work from the ground.  All 
for $500 and buyer picks up or pays freight shipping charges.

Dave France, KW1M
Acworth, GA
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Date: Sat, 31 May 2003 15:56:06 -0400
From: Joe Reisert <>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] OR-2800 pigtail connector
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Jamie etal,

M Squared has been hinting for sometime about the reliability of the
connector. In fact, their tech service recommended to me over a year ago to
just cut off the connector and solder it directly to the rotator cable. I
didn't want to do that and it makes for a mess if you have to remove rotator.

When I was at the Visalia DX Convention a few weeks ago, M Squared showed
me what they now recommend for the 2800 rotator. They have a cast box
(about 3 by 6 by 2") that can be mounted to the tower leg, preferably at
the base of the tower. You cut off the connectors, solder the wires to the
rotator cable and feed them down the tower to the box. Inside the box is a
terminal strip to connect the wires together. At least now the rotator can
be disconnected and, if needed, you can connect your control box at the
tower base for testing. The price is about $30-35. This would also allow
adding MOV etc. protection at the tower base for lightning.


Joe, W1JR

At 08:45 AM 5/31/2003 -0400, wrote:
> writes:
><<  I've found the most reliable rotator connector, by far, is the
>automotive flat rubber trailer connectors that come with pigtails.........
> >>
>Don't ya just love cheap, easy, elegant solutions that actually work?
>The above is one of 'em.
>I'd like to add -
>Put a bit of antioxidant stuff on each wire before you crimp it. It doesn't
>take much.
>Also, use the correct size butt splice and, as Rog points out, the correct
>I usually spray the joint with a spray silicone before covering it, but this
>may be overkill.
>Personally, I prefer the uninsulated connectors and heat-shrink tubing method
>of installation. Some of the covers on the insulated ones are pretty brittle
>and leave a lump, like a snake that just swallowed something. When you're
>you have a bunch of wires and this big lump at the splice.
>The uninsulated type (or just remove the insulation if that's all you can
>find) makes a much neater job of it.
>73, Don - K4BEV
>See:  for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless
>Weather Stations", and lot's more.  Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with
>any questions and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.
>TowerTalk mailing list

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