As others will undoubtedly tell you, don't let the rebar ends sit
directly on dirt. Moisture will corrode the ends and eventually propagate
up into the concrete, defeating the purpose of the rebar.
Instead, you can simply put a couple of bricks underneath every other
rebar at the bottom of the hole. You want at least three inches of concrete
around the ends of the rebar. Then pour concrete around them. Just be
careful while pouring that first six inches of concrete or so. Don't hit
the bricks directly, otherwise the bricks may become dislodged.
Gene Smar AD3F
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Gates" <email@example.com>
To: "Tower Talk" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 4:11 PM
Subject: [TowerTalk] Rebar cage for tower footing
> I've noted the UST footing design for most/all their towers, and they
> rebar cage with the vertical pieces set approximately 3" above the bottom
> footing. This is obviously a clumsy undertaking in the real world,
> would entail pouring 3" of concrete in the hole, let it set up, insert the
> and continue the pour. After 30 years in the construction business, I've
> few footings poured, and many were designed by engineers who never had to
> actually install their designs, such as spread footings which are
> labor intensive, and for no reason. To make a long question short, any
> engineers out there who see a problem with the rebar cage sitting on the
> floor of the hole and pouring around it?
> Bob KG7KW
> See: http://www.mscomputer.com for "Self Supporting Towers", "Wireless
Weather Stations", and lot's more. Call Toll Free, 1-800-333-9041 with any
questions and ask for Sherman, W2FLA.
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