I have used oil and used diesel in the past for this but I have found
something that is even better and your wood will remain free for another use
of any kind that you want.
Wrap the plywood with Saran Wrap and then put it in place. There is no need
to worry about the oil drying out and your wood will separate without any
problem at all. If you have access to a shipping dock most have large rolls
of plastic wrap that they use to secure a skid of small boxes with. You
probably can buy a roll from a dock supervisor or they may just give you
one. Just wrap it on the plywood so the wrap is vertical when the board is
in place as this will prevent the pouring of the concrete to catch a pocket
that could be open.
I think you will like this method. It is a lot easier than using oil or
On 7/29/06, Michael Baker <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
> In a previous occupation, I poured refactory concrete in wooden and
> rubber and fiberglass forms. What we used for form oil was a product made
> from petroleum naptha. It is made by a company called Symons and the
> product is called Magic Coat VOC. If you go to any good concrete specialty
> store that sells Saunatube and rents forms they will have a recommended
> lube. Back when, Magic Coat ran about $3 a gallon when gas was under a
> so who knows what it sells for now but it is an excellent form release and
> can be applied by a pump sprayer like you use in the garden for bugs. Use
> it on all the forms and tools and it helps the clean up a lot. It helps
> preserve the metal and wood form and tools as well for storage.
> Michael Baker K7DD
> -----Original Message-----
> From: email@example.com
> [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org] On Behalf Of JC Smith
> Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2006 12:55 PM
> To: 'Towertalk'
> Subject: [TowerTalk] 80' tower in SF Bay area (update)
> Greetings fellow TTers,
> Man, has it been hot out here! 139 deaths due to the heat in the past
> weeks. We saw 112 deg. F on the shaded patio one day and three or four
> in a row of 110+. The hottest temperature I can recall in the previous
> years was 106, and that only lasted a day or two. Anyway, the hot weather
> gave me a chance to learn a lot about grounding schemes and a good excuse
> let my back heal up. I got a bad spasm digging by hand to clean out
> up) the corners of the hole that the backhoe could not reach. That's
> another drawback to a tight location and requisite small backhoe. You can
> see how much the backhoe was able to dig out and the resultant hand
> on my tower picture site:
> Today I'm assembling the tower base and purchasing rebar, dobies, wire
> etc. and plywood for the forms, also some concrete blocks to set the tower
> base on. I intentionally dug the foundation hole about 3" deeper than
> required so I could put some crushed rock in the bottom to make it good
> level, so I have to pick up the rock and wheelbarrow it into the hole too.
> Next week I'll be cutting and bending the rebar ($17.00 per day to rent a
> cutter/bender that will handle up to #5 rebar) and getting the tower base
> all level and plumb. The forms will go on last, right before the concrete
> pump and trucks arrive.
> One quick question for the group: In the past I have just used motor oil
> my forms, but I was always able to oil them a few minutes before I poured
> the concrete. Due to the size of this form (5'x5'x3.5') and its location
> around the tower base I will probably have to oil it before I drop it over
> the tower base and it may have to sit there for a while before we
> pour. How
> long can I wait after oiling the forms (plywood) before I pour? Is there
> any commercial form-oil product that would give me more slack time between
> oiling and pouring?
> Thanks, and keep an eye out for more progress reports and pictures if you
> are interested. I'll post a summary, along with costs, when the project
> 73 - JC, K0HPS
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