One thing to remember about sealed connectors in a cable. The cable should
never be sealed at more than one point. IE If there is a sealed connector
at the top of the tower, don't put one at the bottom and don't put any
sealed splices in the cable. If it's sealed in two spots the pressure
between the inside and outside will vary with temperature and barometric
pressure. The cable will breathe in some where, but the moisture will have
a difficult time getting out.
> In a message dated 8/10/2006 11:03:25 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> email@example.com writes:
>> I also use Scotch 88, but usually coat it with Scotchcote, which
The problem I've had with 88 tape is the adhesive turning gooey in the hot
direct summer sun. I've never had it come off though. Several really tight
layers seem to work well.
> supposedly forms such a vapor and water barrier that you could lay the
> cable and connector underwater and not have water penetration.
> Well, that's what it's designed for and it works great for buried
> applications. Unfortunately it's very poor in UV (outdoor) environments
> and dries
> up and flakes off after a year or two. The same with Liquid Electrical
"So far" I've had good luck with liquid electrical tape as the stuff I use
was designed for the marine environment. OTOH I haven't had any up over 5
> Professional installers sometimes use clear acrylic spray paint as the
> fourth and final layer on an outdoor coax connector. The first 3 layers
> tape, vapor wrap and another layer of tape.
I do often use the clear acrylic spray, but it appears to disappear within a
few years so I didn't mention it in a previous post.
Roger Halstead (K8RI and ARRL 40 year Life Member)
N833R - World's oldest Debonair CD-2
www.rogerhalstead.com (Use return address from home page)
> Steve K7LXC
> TOWER TECH -
> Professional tower services for hams
> Cell: 206-890-4188
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