Maybe this is a dumb question, or maybe not. I appreciate that one can
"avoid" pigtails by using connectors, but if one ultimately has to connect
to an antenna with some kind of lug, and for whatever reason inserting a
balun is not possible, aren't you just moving the pigtail off the run coax
but still having the same exposure issues on the short piece at the antenna?
Also, if you had water wicking into the braid, and a PL259-SO239-PL259 union
was downstream only a few inches, could not this connector sequence also
pass water from within, down into the run coax, between the outside of the
shield and the jacket? UHF connectors are not waterproof.
P.S. I use roofing tar sometimes and hot-glue-and-shrink at other times. If
success is measured by making QSOs, I would conclude my approach has not
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck N7BV" <email@example.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Sealing Pigtails - Opinions?
> GM Ward,
> In the past I have avoided having to seal pig-tails by
> using an SO-239 female connector mounted on
> plexi-glass or aluminum sheeting and PL-259's on the
> coax. Sealing the SO-239 is much easier (used RTV or
> hot-gun glue, both of which have worked well for me).
> I use this on my Quad DE's and on any vertical
> 73, Chuck N7BV
> = = = Original message = = =
> As long as we're discussing sealing, I have a question
> about sealing
> pigtails. Waterproofing the end of a coax pigtail can
> be difficult
> of the exposed braid and the stranded center conductor
> of most coax.
> wick water back into the cable. I've attempted
> waterproofing a couple
> ways - I'm sure the group can suggest some
> Both methods assume that the jacket has been peeled
> back and that I
> have a
> flat braid pigtail and some center insulator and
> exposed center
> forming the other pigtail. Furthermore, the center
> insulator is solid
> the center conductor is stranded. Ring or spade
> terminals are the
> Method #1 - Crimp on the terminals and solder,
> flooding the end of the
> and braid with solder, attempting to fill the
> interstrand volumes.
> From the
> braid terminal, flood with solder back at least 1 cm.
>>From the center
> conductor terminal, flood with solder down into the
> center conductor.
> entire cable end liberally, but apolitically, with
> liquid electrical
> tape up
> to the terminal. Work the goo into the strands as
> much as possible.
> Method #2 - Crimp terminal on center conductor and
> flood with solder as
> Method #1. Trim braid to about 1 cm long and solder to
> a solid jumper
> with terminal soldered on. Now paint with the liquid
> electrical tape
> as in
> Method #1.
> The goal of both methods is to form a relatively solid
> barrier to water
> being wicked into the cable. The pigtails formed by
> either method can
> wrapped with electrical tape, if desired, but the
> water barrier should
> depend on the tape.
> 73, Ward N0AX
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