Most hardline CATV connectors I have seen have robust, high current capacity
contacts with the hardline shield, and center conductor. The center conductors
are often cinched down with a healthy setscrew, and the shields usually have
a series of serrated, sharp "grippers" that surround the jacket, , and grip
tightly, when you wrench tightly the clamping nut. While the signal levels are
indeed low voltage and current, most such connectors are also, designed to carry
the DC or AC power, to power the various series connected active devices
between the nearest power supply and the end of the coax line. A fair number
of amps, t here.
A quick and effective way to connectorize .750 CATV hardline is to use a
female UHF fitting (what takes PL-259s on both ends), Chop (Hacksaw) the .750
the end, Take a Hacksaw, and cut 4 equally spaced slots in the alum jacket,
1.5" long from then end, clear all filings, and clear out about 1.5" of the
dielectric. A blade with a wide saw Kerf works best, allowing some
reduction to clamp to the barrel connector Champfer the center conductor to a
slight conical shape, and gently puish on the double female barrel connector.
(apply a tiny amount of dielecric grease to the threads of the Barrel) Be sure
inside of the alum jacket is clean, bare aluminum with no particles, dielectric
or sometimes cable flooding goo. Attach a small hose clamp tightly on the
around the threads inside the coax, that you can see through the sawcut
Seal VERY thoroughly with Scotch electrical tape,
Gorilla Snot, and more tape.
All the best,
Pat Barthelow (916) 315-9271
Jamesburg Moon Bounce Team
> From: firstname.lastname@example.org
> To: email@example.com
> Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:23:10 -0700
> Subject: [TowerTalk] Any reason not to use commercial CATV connectors?
> I am in the process of moving my tower, and re-cabling the feedlines. I am
> going to use surplus 3/4" CATV hardline for the two feedlines, each about
> 350' long. I will need to splice one line (I only have one piece that is
> long enough), and obviously put a connector on each end of each cable.
> My question is, is there any reason _not_ to use commercially made CATV
> splices and connectors (pin connectors) for this purpose? My guess is that
> they are designed for much lower power levels than I intend to use (1500
> watts) - but my guess is also that I am better off using "real" connectors
> and splices than trying to build my own... They don't seem expensive, and
> they look quite well made and water tight.
> ***dan, K6IF
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