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[TowerTalk] Yaesu G1000-DXA Rotator Problem

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Subject: [TowerTalk] Yaesu G1000-DXA Rotator Problem
From: "Randy Hollingsworth" <randyholl@mchsi.com>
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 2008 17:53:49 -0600
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
I recently installed a Yaesu G1000-DXA rotor on my tower. I constructed the
control cable per the Yaesu manual instructions, and against my better
judgment, crimped, but did not solder, the pins for the molex style
connector on the rotor control box. Sure enough, within a month, the wires
pulled out of a couple of the crimped connector pins. I obtained a new
connector and cable (commercially manufactured) and installed it, but now
the rotor will not operate at all. The pilot lights are on in the control
box, but when you push the CW or CCW switch, nothing happens. I checked the
cable thoroughly before installing and all the connector connections are
correct. In addition, I checked the resistances through to the rotor and
they too seem reasonable. The two pins that go to the ends of the
potentiometer in the rotor read a bit over 500 ohms, while the center tap on
the pot will read about 300 ohms one side, 200 on the other. The pins that
run to the filter and motor read about 13 ohms, which seems reasonable,
although I do not know if that is simply the motor winding turns or a more
complex value.

 

At any rate, this seems to point back at the control box, although it is
only a year old and was only in use for the month before the connector wires
pulled out. I found K1TTT's article on checking Yaesu GXXXX-DXA rotors and
tried to follow it to remove the control box cover, but his description of
the locations of the screws to remove do not match up with my controller, so
did not want to proceed until I was able to find a source that better fit my
unit. Unfortunately, the info available on the web about checking these
units is pretty sparse.

 

I would appreciate any assistance in how to go about troubleshooting the
problem further and on how just to remove the cover and front panel without
screwing something up. Also, would appreciate any comments on whether the
resistance readings taken on the rotor appear normal. Thanks!

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