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Re: [TowerTalk] Tapered elements.

To: <>, <>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Tapered elements.
From: "Gene Fuller" <>
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 15:48:52 -0500
List-post: <">>
Re Stainless clamps. I suggest you check out McMaster-Carr ( 
Industrial pricing. Order by noon, delivered next day (to Upstate NY).

Gene / W2LU
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <>
To: <>
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 2:58 PM
Subject: [TowerTalk] Tapered elements.

> OM Tom,
> Lots of good advice regarding the use of Scitchbrite and an 
> aluminum-bearing joint compound.
> I've just now finished getting my trap rotary dipole (modified from the 
> reflector section of a TH-3) back together and would like to add a bit to 
> the discussion.
> Assuming you have a new antenna, wipe the joints down with 91% isopropyl 
> (rubbing) alcohol before using the Penetrox.
> If your antenna uses "hose clamps" to cinch the sections together, toss 
> into the trash the ones that came with it unless you can verify they are 
> all stainless. The worm gear screw and housing are frequently made of 
> ordinary, plated steel. Replace with "All Stainless (a trade name) or 
> Breeze (another trade name.)  Both are US companies who make
> their hose clamps from 100% stainless.  Prepare to pay a multiple of what 
> a cheapie clamp costs but you will be spared much frustration when you 
> have to service the antenna.  (I learned this the hard way...HI!) You may 
> have to go to a smaller hardware store to get these or a place that cares 
> about doing a good job repairing automobiles.  Perhaps some of the good 
> folk on the list can recommend a mail-order house.  I've the good fortune 
> of having an old-time hardware store within walking distance which carries 
> the good stuff.
> After you get the antenna together, wipe the whole thing down with 91%
> isopropyl alcohol and give the antenna (except the coax connector) a coat 
> of liquid automobile wax.  I've found this technique keeps the antenna 
> shiny for several years.
> I prefer to use a synthetic grease to "flood" the coax connection.  If you 
> use the rubber tape sealing method, the synthetic grease will not attack 
> the rubber tape as the carrier in joint compound might.  This material is 
> available at Radio Schlock and is just fine.....used it in
> my antenna business for many years.  I've had bad luck with "Coax-Seal"
> as it tends to harden after several years.
> You may wish to swap out the mast-to-boom bolts if they are not stainless 
> steel.  In any event, use some anti-seize compound (not the same as the 
> joint compound) on the bolts to make servicing easier.  You can get a 
> small amount of anti-seize compound at your auto supply store.  It comes 
> in essentially 3 "flavors" Nickel-bearing, Copper-bearing and 
> Zinc-bearing.  Any of these will do fine.  I tend towards copper-bearing.
> Hope to see you in the ARRL 10 meter contest this weekend.
> 72,
> Tim
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