Re Stainless clamps. I suggest you check out McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com).
Industrial pricing. Order by noon, delivered next day (to Upstate NY).
Gene / W2LU
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 2:58 PM
Subject: [TowerTalk] Tapered elements.
> OM Tom,
> Lots of good advice regarding the use of Scitchbrite and an
> aluminum-bearing joint compound.
> I've just now finished getting my trap rotary dipole (modified from the
> reflector section of a TH-3) back together and would like to add a bit to
> the discussion.
> Assuming you have a new antenna, wipe the joints down with 91% isopropyl
> (rubbing) alcohol before using the Penetrox.
> If your antenna uses "hose clamps" to cinch the sections together, toss
> into the trash the ones that came with it unless you can verify they are
> all stainless. The worm gear screw and housing are frequently made of
> ordinary, plated steel. Replace with "All Stainless (a trade name) or
> Breeze (another trade name.) Both are US companies who make
> their hose clamps from 100% stainless. Prepare to pay a multiple of what
> a cheapie clamp costs but you will be spared much frustration when you
> have to service the antenna. (I learned this the hard way...HI!) You may
> have to go to a smaller hardware store to get these or a place that cares
> about doing a good job repairing automobiles. Perhaps some of the good
> folk on the list can recommend a mail-order house. I've the good fortune
> of having an old-time hardware store within walking distance which carries
> the good stuff.
> After you get the antenna together, wipe the whole thing down with 91%
> isopropyl alcohol and give the antenna (except the coax connector) a coat
> of liquid automobile wax. I've found this technique keeps the antenna
> shiny for several years.
> I prefer to use a synthetic grease to "flood" the coax connection. If you
> use the rubber tape sealing method, the synthetic grease will not attack
> the rubber tape as the carrier in joint compound might. This material is
> available at Radio Schlock and is just fine.....used it in
> my antenna business for many years. I've had bad luck with "Coax-Seal"
> as it tends to harden after several years.
> You may wish to swap out the mast-to-boom bolts if they are not stainless
> steel. In any event, use some anti-seize compound (not the same as the
> joint compound) on the bolts to make servicing easier. You can get a
> small amount of anti-seize compound at your auto supply store. It comes
> in essentially 3 "flavors" Nickel-bearing, Copper-bearing and
> Zinc-bearing. Any of these will do fine. I tend towards copper-bearing.
> Hope to see you in the ARRL 10 meter contest this weekend.
> Improve your career health. Click now to study nutrition!
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