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[TowerTalk] LM470 gear box

Subject: [TowerTalk] LM470 gear box
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 22:46:10 EDT
List-post: <">>
The problem of getting heavy lubricant into a difficult location was a  
typical automotive issue trying to get 90w hypoid oil into the differential 
gear  housing in the rear axle.  The solution was effectively a big  syringe.  
It was a cylinder about 2" in diameter, a plunger and a flex  nozzle.  Stick 
the nozzle into the oil, suck it up into the cylinder and  then squirt it 
into the rear gear box.  They used to be available in supply  houses catering 
to the automotive repair business.  Today that job is done  from a central 
reservoir and drop down hose and trigger nozzle.  Consider  something on the 
turkey baster principle, as and alternative.
Norm W4QN

Message:  6
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2010 18:55:42 -0500
From: "K0DAN"  <>
Subject: [TowerTalk] TRI-EX LM470  GEARBOX

Hi Folks...

I'm doing maintenance on my 1980's vintage  Tri-Ex LM470D which I've had up 
at this QTH since about 1999.

It  has the original a Hub City gearbox, which leaks oil. The gearbox has  
never caused me trouble, but it seems like having oil in it is better than  
dry gearbox.

A couple of problems/questions for the  group...

A) The fill plug is very inaccessible (blocked by the bottom  of the 
The best I've come up with is a funnel with piece of  plastic tubing and 
to drip oil into the gearbox. 80 weight or higher  weight gear oil is just 
too thick to run thru the curves in the plastic  tubing. Even regular motor 
oil doesn't make it, and the small opening of  the fill plug makes it hard 
for air to "burp" out of the housing. Result:  lots of spilled oil and no 
to tell how much oil ever got into the  housing! Any tricks on how fill the 
damn thing?

B) Has anyone  replaced the gearbox seals? Is there a way to replace the 
gearbox seals  without complete removal from the drum and mounting frame? 
does the  gearbox shaft attached to the drum shaft? It appears to be 
but I  doubt this is the case...there must be a key on the shaft, however 
there  are no obvious set screws, keys, or other means of coupling. Looks 
like  complete removal could be a big job with collateral damage.

I can send  some photos if my text doesn't make sense....anyone been down 
this road  before? Any ideas greatly appreciated!

Tnx es 73



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