We too have the 20 A outlet here in the states. It has both vert and horiz
slots on the right side of the receptacle. 15A rated plugs are vert and 20 A
rated are horiz. I use them alll the time in the medical repair work that I
On Fri, Jul 30, 2010 at 5:04 AM, Jim Thomson <email@example.com> wrote:
> Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 11:09:46 -0700
> From: "Jim Brown" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] surge protectors
> Another suggestion. run 20A circuits (#12) for anything that may get a lot
> of electronic stuff plugged in, with a dedicated neutral for each circuit.
> For long runs, pull in #10. If you do the math, you quickly realize that
> 20A will run a LOT of ham gear, everything but big power amps. That big
> 13.8V power supply is only dragging about 700W out of the wall to provide
> 40A continuous DC, enough to have two rigs keydown in RTTY at the same
> time. AND you can greatly reduce those peak power requirements by using
> smaller power supplies to float deep dischrage batteries.
> ### If I remember correctly, in our BC electrical code, IF you opt for
> a 20A circuit [120 vac] and use 12 ga Cu , and also a single 20A
> the 120 vac outlet must be of the 20A rated variety ! The 20A rated
> 120 vac outlets don't resemble the normal 15A variety. They use a
> weird 20A 120 vac outlet... which requires the mating plug. I think
> one blade was straight.. and the 2nd one had a right angle to it, such that
> normal appliances,etc, could not be plugged into it. IF a regular 120
> outlet is used, and V drop is a concern, sure, you can use 12 ga wire...
> you must use a 15A breaker. 10 ga CU won't fit most 120 vac outlets
> [ they will take 12 ga max]
> ## IF you want to save on wire, I see no reason why you can't run 240
> + neutral to a duplex 120 outlet... then break the tab off... and then
> they share a
> common neutral. This is done all the time in kitchens. Then you can suck
> 15A per
> outlet. The neutral current is the difference between the two loads.
> ## depending on how far the shack is from the main 200A panel.... I decided
> in my
> case, to go to plan B... and simply install a 100A sub panel on the other
> side of the
> shack wall [ unfinished part of the basement, where the 200A main panel is
> across the
> basement from the 100 A sub panel]. Sub panel was cheap... and is wired
> back to main
> panel with 3 ga CU. Then it's real short lengths [ like <10'] of 120/240
> wiring from
> 100A sub panel to shack on other side of wall. Then I'm not gobbling up
> breaker positions in the main 200A panel either.
> ## each amp gets it own real short dedicated 240 vac circuit [10 ga].
> Also loads of 120 vac
> circuits.[12 ga] It's actually an excellent way to go. Instead of
> really long multiple runs back to the
> 200A main panel [ with huge ga wire, so no V drops] , I end up with
> really short multiple
> runs to sub panel.... and zero V drops. It makes for a cleaner install,
> and WAY less clutter/mess.
> Dunno what the smallest size sub panel you can get these days. Even a
> 40-60A sub panel,
> fed with 8-6 ga cu would be a winner... and still provide loads of
> power. In the winter time,
> after dinner / late at night, I use a 1 kw electric heater in my tiny 8' x
> 10' shack. Makes more
> economical sense vs running a gas furnace, and heating up the entire 2000
> sq ft house.
> During the day time, we will use the gas furnace. At night, we use the gas
> fireplace upstairs
> in living room... and the 1 kw space heater for my radio room. I have a
> 5 kw heater in the
> workshop next door, which takes no time at all to bring my real small work
> shop up to temp....
> I only use the 5 kw heater at night.
> ## that was another reason to just install one sub panel..and be done
> with it. The 5 kw
> heater in the shop next door is 6' away from the sub panel. The 1 kw
> heater in the shack
> is 12' away from sub panel. Feeding real short multiple runs through one
> wall, is a LOT easier
> than drilling out umpteen ceiling joists.
> later.... Jim VE7RF
> For a serious multi-two setup, I'd do two 20A circuits and two 240V
> circuits. One 240V circuit is plenty for SO2R, but you want the second
> circuit if two amps will be in TX at the same time. One 120V circuit will
> run all the transceivers and support stuff for multi-two -- the second
> circuit is a spare, or for non-electronic stuff. Years ago, N6RO was wired
> with six 120V circuits and six 240V circuits, and it's plenty for his 5-
> transmitter multi-multi setup. His shack is in his barn (attached to the
> house), and he installed a local panel in the shack. This makes the wiring
> to his outlets much shorter, improving voltage regulation. Naturally, you
> also want big feeders to that panel.
> 73, Jim K9YC
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