Hi Jim, I stand corrected....didn't interpret correctly what you were
>From what I hear, the DX Engineering enclosure is a nice one. We don't handle
>such a product but we can save buyers some $$ on any products in the
>Polyphaser line. In addition to in-coax line protectors, we also have had
>fellow hams buying service entrance protectors, as even hits on the utility
>line ground, even when a mile away from the shack, can be an issue coming into
>the house/shack on that utility line. These protectors are expensive and any
>of the PolyPhaser parts can be seen on their website,
>www.protectiongroup.com/Home (some NEAT lightning pics there also).
If there is anything at all that I can help with, feel free to contact
me....you don't need to have a possible buying need to talk with me. Email
me or call my direct line, below, as I am not at our 800 #, I am at a branch
handling mostly commercial matters nowadays (not as much fun as ham radio
matters !! HI )
73, Steve , K1PEK,
DAVIS RF Co., Div. of Orion Wire Co., Inc.
Wire, Cable, RF Connectors and wire aerial parts.
LMR, Heliax, Eupen
Commercial / Military
Custom Cable Design
tel: 978-369-1738 Fax: 978-369-3484
On Jul 31, 2010, at 11:00 AM, jimlux wrote:
> Stephen Davis wrote:
>> Hi Guys,
>> Some observations: There was a reference to "Silicone Caulk" for
>> sealing the connector threads. I think he meant Silicone grease.
>> Silicone grease is better for a number of reasons, and although some
>> folks use Silicone caulk on the outside of connectors, and to seal
>> wire connections from coax to wire antenna feed points, I recommend
>> against it as there can be adverse chemical reactions with copper
>> wire and also silicone caulk will seem to adhere to PVC and PE (many
>> LMR's) outer jacket but in very short time the seal will break down,
>> letting water in.
> I was thinking silicone caulk to seal the the housing of the transient
> suppressor to the box, not for the threads.. The idea being that you drill a
> hole in the box and push the threaded part of the connector thru the hole,
> with the housing of the suppressor snug up against the inside wall of the box.
> Cheaper and smaller than a bulkhead feedthrough and another cable inside the
> box from feedthrough to suppressor.
> Of course, one could probably just use a piece of wire (not coax) to connect
> the center pin of the feedthrough to the center pin of the connector on the
> suppressor. The shield of the feedthrough is solidly connected to the box,
> as is the housing of the suppressor, and the few inches of wire probably
> wouldn't make much difference impedance wise, at least for HF.
> You'd use whatever usual scheme you want for sealing the actual connector.
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