On 8/28/2010 11:29 AM, K0DAN wrote:
> Thanks for your tips.
> The fiberglass box is (obviously) not metal, however I have been
> refurbishing various rust& corrosion issues on tower parts, hardware, etc.
> I've been using a brush-on rust converter, then priming& painting with
> Rustoleum. Works OK but kind of labor intensive. It'd be nice to find a
> "silver bullet" which reduces the number of steps to cause chemical
> reduction of rust, then prime& paint.
> What self-etching primer do you use?
> I have no experience with fiberglass but have received several good
> suggestions on what to do with this flakey box. Fortunately it is not very
> big (about 1/2 cubic foot) so whatever the labor, it should not be too bad
> (he said).
> Tnx es 73
> PS Spray gun?!? My, you are fancy! 1" paint brushes are my forte, with an
> occasional splurge for a can of spray paint! ;-)
I couldn't paint a fence post with a brush and make it look good. <:-))
The problem with spray guns is it takes more work to clean up than to
prep and paint.
Normally the paint in spray cans just doesn't stand up, or at least any
that I've tried didn't.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger (K8RI)"<K8RI-on-TowerTalk@tm.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 12:25 AM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] FIBERGLASS BOX
>> On 8/28/2010 12:07 AM, Mickey Baker wrote:
>>> You're going to want to sand off the flakes. If it flakes and you paint
>>> the paint will flake. Caution - if you sand fiberglass, take steps to
>>> breathing the dust.
>> Not necessarily...but it depends on both the condition of the surface
>> and what you are going to coat it with. *Some* and I do mean some and
>> certainly not all, *low* *viscosity* resins such as Vinyl Ester Resin
>> (Dow Derakane ) is one such a resin. It will penetrate into fiber
>> reinforced resins that have deteriorated IF the deterioration is not too
>> deep. IOW it takes some experience to be able to judge what needs to be
>> removed and what doesn't. Also the Derakane will form a good base to
>> OTOH if you can tolerate the loss of strength, just sand and paint with
>> a paint that is UV resistant. Epoxies and epoxy paint are notoriously
>> poor at resistance to UV.
>> On metal be it steel or aluminum I use a self etching primer sprayed
>> on. Last night I coated the ends of the 2" DOM by brushing on a
>> relatively thin coat. It was still tacky, or at least soft in many
>> areas. I spray painted the rest of the 24' lengths using the same, self
>> etching primer. It was dry to the touch in less than 15 minutes. You
>> could pick up the 120# masts without leaving marks in the primer. I may
>> have to strip the primer off the ends and redo them with the spray gun.
>> At-any-rate the guide was to use the paint un thinned but experience is
>> telling me about 10% Xylene would work better. Out-of-the-can was taking
>> 60psi with the flow adjustments wide open when it should be 40 psi and
>> only about half throttle. OTOH they may have been thinking HVLP instead
>> of the conventional guns. I did do a good job of painting the grass to
>> the South of the shop.<:-))
>> Today I'm going to prime the base for the 25G and then paint both the
>> base and the masting later in the day. With the temp near 90 and bright
>> sun it should dry FAST. Then *maybe* Sunday we can plant the base and at
>> least put up the first three sections of 25G. Maybe all 5 sections, but
>> that might be a tad optimistic.
>> I've never used it, but ACE Hardware advertises a spray paint that is
>> designed for spraying plastics and resins. It bonds to the material so
>> that *might* be an alternative.
>>> Pettit Easypoxy is a one part polyurethane that goes on beautifully (with
>>> good, fine brush)
>> I've never mastered a "good" coat of any paint using a brush. I can put
>> a mirror finish on with a sprayer, but not a brush.
>>> and will last for many years. It is made for marine use,
>>> including fiberglass boats. You can get it at your local marine store or
>>> mail order.
>>> Any really good paint for fiberglass isn't going to be cheap. Count on
>>> $25 -
>>> $40 for a pint of paint and a good brush - but it will look fantastic.
>> The self etching primer and paint cost me a tad over $100 total for 1
>> gallon of each.
>> I'd enjoy painting if the clean up wasn't so much work.<sigh>
>> Roger (K8RI)
>>> Mickey N4MB
>>> On Fri, Aug 27, 2010 at 11:41 PM, K0DAN<email@example.com> wrote:
>>>> I have an old motorized Tri-Ex LM470 tower. All is well, given periodic
>>>> I replaced the control box (apparently some type of fiberglass compound)
>>>> about 12 years ago...the interior components are still in good shape but
>>>> exterior of the box is starting to "flake" due to solar radiation and or
>>>> exposure to the elements.
>>>> Anyone know of a good paint, PVC, or other compound I can brush over it
>>>> seal it, stop the deterioration, and buy another 10+ years?
>>>> Thanks and 73
>>>> TowerTalk mailing list
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