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Re: [TowerTalk] securing loose element ends

To: Gene Fuller <w2lu@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] securing loose element ends
From: n8de@thepoint.net
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 09:58:22 -0400
List-post: <towertalk@contesting.com">mailto:towertalk@contesting.com>
Absolutely!
Don
N8DE


Quoting Gene Fuller <w2lu@rochester.rr.com>:

> I may be missing something here, but when I make an element, if the clamp
> doesn't quite firm up the joint I just get the hack saw out and cut another
> slot, 90 degrees around the circumfrence from the first and that allows for
> a bit more compression and preserves the potential for further length
> adjustment.
> Gene / W2LU
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger" <roger@rogerhalstead.com>
> To: <towertalk@contesting.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 12:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] securing loose element ends
>
>
>> On 9/23/2010 12:25 AM, Kevin Normoyle wrote:
>>>
>>>>> Hi TT'ers,
>>>>> I was putting together my Hygain Ex 14 today and found something I
>>>>> hadn't expected. When tightening up the hose clamps to secure the
>>>>> ends of the elements (7/16") that regardless of how hard I cranked
>>>>> the clamps, the tips were still loose enough that they could easily
>>>>> be pulled out-maybe 10# of pressure!
>>>
>>> I like rivets. But I think there's a different issue here. Rivets are
>>> nice for telescoping straight tubes that fit
>>> nicely within each other. And
>>>
>> As do I, but they will also work with properly swaged and fitted elements.
>>
>>> in fact I just ordered a bunch of Avex rivets from Aircraft Spruce,
>>> because I was getting too many mandrels breaking off
>>> on some Pop Rivet brand rivets. I read good things about the Avex rivets,
>>> but haven't used them yet. Interestingly they
>>> have a wider grip range than the Pop Rivet ones I was using.
>>
>> I think you will find the piece that fits into the tool (I've forgotten
>> the name of it) has barbed like edges, almost like a bee's leg. These
>> expand the gripping range.  "I think" (meaning I don't remember for
>> sure) they are also "blind rivets" so moisture will not go through them.
>>
>> What rivets do other people use? I also switched to a
>>> different rivet tool.
>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/avexblindriv.php
>>>
>> I don't think the tool will make a great deal of difference if it fits
>> correctly and works the way it's supposed to.
>>
>>> But the problem with Hygain, is the joints are swaged. And the swage is
>>> not that precise, so you don't get good contact
>>> on hte inner surfaces.
>>
>> A swaged joint "can be precise", but the dies wear and they are
>> expensive so manufacturers get every last mile out of them.
>>>
>> I've thought of trying this, but on a larger scale using rollers on
>> larger tubing.  The problem with swaging or working Aluminum is the
>> stuff work hardens FAST.  But at-any-rate, Those who have worked with
>> lathes are probably familiar with the hand held knurling tool.  It's
>> hinged at the outer end, then back in a ways are two wheels on one side
>> and one on the other.  The piece to be knurled is held in and turned by
>> the lathe.  The knurling tool is placed over the tube with pressure
>> applied to the handles, impressing the knurl into the Aluminum surface.
>>
>> If the rollers were replaced with smooth rollers the tool could be used
>> to compress the swaged end of the element.  Carefully done the entire
>> swaged end could be smoothly compressed to fit snugly on the inner
>> section. This would have to be done carefully and only a few thousandths
>> at a time, but should work.  OTOH it's going to a lot of work for a
>> little gain. Me? I'd think it's worth it, but it's certainly not worth
>> the expense of going out and purchasing a lathe and the tools to go with
>> it. <:-))
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Plus: as I noted here before, the clamps Hygain ships are no good.  They
>>> are cheapest of the cheap and will strip easily.
>>> I will bet two cents there is no recognizable manufacturer name on the
>>> clamps. (look)
>>>
>>> So: you want better clamps, so you can get more torque without stripping.
>>> And you might want to double clamp just
>>> because the swaging is bad.
>>>
>>> Maybe someone can comment about whether they've riveted the slit Hygain
>>> swaged ends. I would think it wouldn't work as
>>> well as normal telescoping tubing.
>> I've had good luck with the Hy-gain joints and connectors, but the last
>> ones I used were nearly 5 years ago.  The looked a bit "tent like" made
>> of SS strip, with a screw in the center.  I've never stripped one of
>> those but I sure have stripped a bunch of the SS hose clamps.  I don't
>> know what they use now that they've been "bought out".
>>>
>>
>> 73
>>
>> Roger (K8RI)
>>> -kevin
>>> AD6Z
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
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