The process I've used for 40 years for solder PL259's to RG8/11, not new
or unique and in several texts:
remove about 1.5" of jacket with a box cutter, bending the cable so you
don't nick the braid
evenly and thinly tin the shield braid all around for 3/4" beyond the jacket
use a small tubing (refrigeration) cutter to score and mostly cut
through the tinned braid at 5/8"
use a sharp box cutter knife to finish cut the braid, trim any uneven
spots with a fine tip diagonal cutter
cut the center insulation with the knife about 1/16" beyond the braid
place the barrel on the cable
thread on the center part, it may take some pliers to get it all the way on
solder each hole with a 200+ watt gun/iron (some of us still have one),
completely fill each hole (for Ni plated connectors it is a good idea
to tin each hole prior to threading them on)
solder the center pin
never had a short or open, and they are more water tight then some other
it's hard to do this on a cold day with the wind blowing as the heat
loss is too large, or without a vise or helper to hold the cable steady.
Yes, the center conductor insulation melts a bit, but there is no place
for it to go.
The modified tip is a good idea, but use corner of tip works to reach
the braid thru the hole. Once one hole is soldered, work quickly to do
the others to preserve the heat.
Be patient to let it completely cool before handling.
On 1/22/2011 3:28 AM, Stu Ritter wrote:
>> Just one big one that gets hot fast. It has to be in and out quick. A
>> deft touch with the 225 watt Weller will do both the barrel and the
>> tip. However when soldering the barrel there is a lot of mass that has
>> to be heated hot enough for the solder to flow. The problem usually is
>> not enough heat instead of too much. If the gun/iron doesn't get hot
>> enough to melt the solder quickly the barrel gets so hot overall it
>> melts the dielectric before you can solder the braid.
>> Roger (K8RI)
> On my 225 watt Weller I have filed the tip down so there is a 1/16 inch
> long 1/16 inch round pin that goes into the hole and the rest of the tip
> lays against the barrel. With a little practice you can keep the tip
> against the barrel to get it hot without the pin touching the braid and
> then when you are up to temp, just pivot the tip onto the braid and
> in a few seconds the braid is at solder temp. Done.
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