Coincidentally, yesterday I received a couple of clamp-type PL-259s that
I ordered from a Chinese vendor on E-Bay -- the two connectors,
including air mail, totalled only US$6. They are not quite the same -
the shells are nickelpl , the inner conductor is gold flashed, and the
innards are in several different pieces - see
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270680278483>. The
center conductor and insulator are not captive, as it appears Paul's are
- this allows full assembly and test before soldering.
I just put one together with minimal wrench work, and then took it
apart. The clamping appears very good both electrically and from the
standpoint of water-proofing.
I think I'm in love. Now if only they have a size for RG-58/8X.
73, Pete N4ZR
The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000
On 2/11/2011 1:12 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:
> A few weeks ago, Ian, GM3SEK suggested looking into a clamp-type UHF/PL-259
> connector (not crimp) that offered easy assembly and a weather-resistant
> backing for outdoor installations. The only soldering required is for the
> inner conductor.
>
> I ordered a dozen connectors through Newark Electronics and the shipment
> arrived today. I had a RG-214 jumper that needed shortening so I tried the
> new connectors this morning.
>
> http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=94M6035
>
> These connectors are specific to the larger RG-213/214 and LMR400 class of
> cables. However Multicomp offers a smaller clamp-style connector for RG-58.
>
> Cable prep for the Multicomp clamp UHF connector could hardly be easier.
> When Ian said it was a one cut prep with no special tools required, he meant
> it. I used a ChannelLock cable cutter (seen on the bench) but a utility
> knife could also be used to make the single cut. I simply took the cable
> cutter to rotate a single cut at one time through the jacket, braid,
> dielectric, and stopped at the inner conductor. The jacket, braid, and
> dielectric are spun off in one twist and discarded. Next, a flanged
> metallic and non-metallic bushing are inserted onto the end of the cable.
> The result looks like this:
>
> http://72.52.250.47/images/PL-259-1.jpg
>
> You can see I first installed the connector on a section of discarded LMR400
> for a trial. Notice the end clamp and red non-metallic bushing on the
> cable. The connector inner pin must be milled out just a bit to accommodate
> the LMR400's solid inner conductor. I inserted a 7/64 drill bit and twisted
> until the opening widened. This step is not required with the RG cables and
> may not be necessary with other LMR400 variants like UF.
>
> After completing the connector, I wanted to disassemble it to determine
> difficulty. It was a super-easy to remove just by re-heating the inner
> conductor and unscrewing the end clamp. Next, I re-used the same connector
> on my RG-214 jumper. Here's the end result:
>
> http://72.52.250.47/images/PL-259-2.jpg
>
> The end clamp screws into the body using two adjustable open-ended
> wrenches -- similar to installing an "N" type connector. The cable at the
> clamp end is fully sealed and the connector body absolutely does not rotate.
>
> A few comments:
>
> 1) This connector is weather-resistant between the nut and connector body.
> Unlike an "N" type, the threaded shell does not form a seal onto the mating
> SO-239. That's primarily a limitation of the 'teeth' design used on the
> SO-239.
>
> 2) Unlike a soldered UHF connector, one can visually inspect the work before
> inserting the cable into body of the connector until satisfied that the prep
> is good before soldering the inner conductor. Even then, removal only
> requires re-heating the inner conductor. Try that with a soldered PL-259 on
> RG-213/LMR400 cable. Yes, I know there are those who claim they can
> visually inspect and remove a soldered PL-259 by pounding the connector's
> dielectric out of the shell with a nut driver. You decide whether that's
> the proper use of the connector and right tool for the job;
>
> 3) These connectors are not inexpensive but I will now use them for outdoor
> use, while continuing to use crimp connectors indoors. However, since these
> connectors are easily re-used, the initial cost may be offset by economizing
> on re-use in some instances rather than the purchase of new UHF connectors.
>
> Paul, W9AC
>
>
>
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
>
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