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Re: [TowerTalk] Soldering Radials?

To: "Charlie Gallo" <>, "Rick Karlquist" <>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Soldering Radials?
From: "Jim W7RY" <>
Reply-to: Jim W7RY <>
Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 19:38:41 -0700
List-post: <">>
Well it's actually spelled Sil-Fos or Silfos.

 thousands of other hits on Google.73Jim 
W7RY--------------------------------------------------From: "Charlie Gallo" 
<>Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2011 5:56 PMTo: "Rick 
Karlquist" <>Cc: "F5vjc" <>; 
<>; "WesAttaway" <>Subject: Re: 
[TowerTalk] Soldering Radials?>> On 3/23/2011 Rick Karlquist 
wrote:>>>...snip...>>>> My experience is that I have 1000's of silver soldered 
("Stay-Brite"brand)>> connections, that are going strong after 10 years.  
Occasionally,>> I have made temporary connections with 60/40 and those rot away 
within>> a year or so.  YMMV.>>> Rick>> N6RK>> Stay-Brite (at least some of 
them) is a Low temp silver bearing solder,that (at least with the rolls I have) 
melts at temps BELOW what normal 60/40melts at (does anyone actually use 60/40? 
 I always use 63/37 forelectronics, b
 ut that's me)>> After that, you get into what are usually referred to as 
"hard" silversolders.  Probably the easiest to use is often called "Sil-Phos", 
and almostany HVAC guy will have some in his truck (they use it to sweat 
therefrigerant lines) - and most will me more than happy to hand you a stick 
or2 (heck, a lot of the guys use it to hang stuff up in their trucks - or 
atleast they used to)>> Beyond that, you get into all sorts of silver solders, 
with differentcompositions, and therefore different melting points.  What folks 
who haveto do fancy work will do is use the alloy with the HIGHEST melting 
pointFIRST (and usually to attach the largest items), and then work their 
wayDOWN the melting point curve, so that they won't melt the higher 
meltingpoint solders as they work on later items>> As someone said, flux is a 
BIG deal>> For cleanup, beside washing/brushing down (most of the fluxes ARE 
acidbased - deal with it), if you want a clean look after, you really need 
 le' the work - basically, it's soaking it in weak acid.  Commercialproduct 
include stuff like Sparex, but a lot of folks just make up asaturated solution 
of white vinegar and salt (hence 'pickle') and put thework in there - wait a 
few hours/a day, and the work will be nice and clean(don't forget to rinse 
again).  Another common mild acid used (works well)is Sodium Bisulphate - yep, 
the stuff used to reduce alkalinity in swimmingpools>> I don't do much brazing 
or silver soldering these days, and when Iinherited Dad's sets (mind you, I 
already had 2 sets here), I ended up withenough sets to be silly - I actually 
gave 2 sets away to friends, and stillhave 8-10 O2 bottles and 4-5 MC and B 
tanks running around - at the rate Iuse them, I'll probably never have to worry 
about the hydro tests being outof date, because I'll probably never have to 
fill another tank in my life>>> --> 73 de KG2V - Charles Gallo> Quality Custom 
Machine-shop work for the radio amateur (sm)>> _____________
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