On 3/26/2011 12:23 PM, Jim W7RY wrote:
> My experience with Duct Seal is that it has oil in it. A little hard to work
> with the tape over it.
Just let the tape overlap and stick to itself rather than the DuctSeal.
> Jim W7RY
> From: "K1TTT"<K1TTT@ARRL.NET>
> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 3:45 AM
> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding Question
>> Weatherproofing is easy and cheap... Go to local hardware store, buy a
>> couple of pounds of ductseal and some half decent electrical tape (not the
>> real expensive stuff for this). Grab a big handful of the ductseal, mold
>> around the joint to be protected, then apply a layer of tape around it to
>> protect it from the sun and keep it in place around the joint. Cheap,
>> fine, lasts a long time, much easier to remove than coax seal or dipped
>> rubber junk or self vulcanizing tape.
>> David Robbins K1TTT
>> e-mail: mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org
>> web: http://www.k1ttt.net
>> AR-Cluster node: 145.69MHz or telnet://dxc.k1ttt.net
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: K8RI on TT [mailto:email@example.com]
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2011 04:36
>>> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
>>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Grounding Question
>>> On 3/25/2011 10:42 PM, Gene Smar wrote:
>>>> I understand why you might think that weatherproofing
>>> a ground clamp on
>>>> braided coax like RG-8/u might be tricky. However, it can
>>> be done if you
>>>> apply the proper materials.
>>> I don't disagree with that, but I think the weatherproofing technique
>>> may be a bit beyond many.
>>> In my case with a 100 foot tower and with grounding normally figured
>>> about every 75 feet, I think the top and bottom of the tower is close
>>> enough. It's also where the pig tails tie into the coax runs at the
>>> top, and into the SOR2 switching at the bottom so the bulk head
>>> connectors should be as effective as the ones shown.
>>>> I posted some time back in 2001 about applying
>>> homemade ground clamps
>>>> to my runs of RG-213 at the top and bottom of my tower:
>>> . You can see photos of how Joe KC2TN followed my suggestions here:
>>> . The trick to getting a proper seal is to use Scotch 2200 Mastic Pads
>>> cover the clamp and to bridge the cut in the coax shield.
>> I use a Scotch mastic tape, but don't have the number handy. I also use
>> flooded heat shrink which I prefer with the bulkhead connectors as it
>> seals the threads and prevents moisture getting to the connectors.
>> Mastic tape would need to cover the entire connector to keep water away
>> from the threads. Also the heat shrink is just a whole lot easier.
>> The connectors shown in the Times Wire tutorial, or instructions are
>> quite easy to make, once you figure out now much sheet metal to use. A
>> half inch ground rod, piece of tubing, or dowel makes a good mandrel on
>> which to form the clamp. Lay the mandrel in the center of the sheet
>> metal, bend it around and form it with the "duck bill" vise grips that
>> are about 3 or 4" wide. Use a punch to make the holes for the bolts.
>> For aluminum a gasket punch will work nicely.
>> I believe getting the weatherproofing done properly would be the most
>> difficult for most hams.
>> Roger (K8RI)
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