Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2011 20:27:44 -0700
From: Ray Benny <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Mast Steps
I do about the same but welded a 1/8", 6 "X 4" flat steel plate to the
middle of the mast side of the angle stock. I mark the center of the
angle/plate then drill holes about 4 inches vertical apart for the standard
2" pipe/muffler clamps (w/saddles). I also weld a small piece of 3/4" angle
to the ends to keep from slipping off.
I smooth off all angles and sharp edges and paint with cold galvanize. With
4 - 5 inches of spacing between clamps there is no movement of the step at
Putting that non-slip sandpaper type material on the step, as mentioned by
VE7RF, sounds good!
## I didn't want to get into welding, and cold galvanizing steel only last
Rust never sleeps, and Aluminum doesn't rust. I wanted something simple and
The local metal place had loads of AL angle material, so got em to cut it into
For a 3" mast, I would have made them longer, like 15". I had been looking
non-skid, sticky back stuff for some time. A lot of boat places also stock it.
IF it starts
spitting rain out, or any moisture at all, those angle steps are like greased
Angle steel bracing, sloping downwards on my old Trylon is bad enough in the
it's a disaster for mast steps. This non skid stuff is the ticket. The bottom
boots won't budge. I experimented with different sizes of angle AL, and
the conclusion that 2" x 2" x 1/4" thick 6061-T6 met the criteria.
2" wide is wide enough so your feet/legs don't succumb to fatigue. The 2" x
depending on who makes it, will either have a web on the inside corner, or not.
I tested these these steps 6 x ways to Sunday, and they won't budge, flex. Use
a small TQ wrench to dial in the correct TQ for the 3/8" G-8 lubricated
A chalk line down the side of the mast on both sides will also help with
in the cases where the mast + steps are assembled on the grnd.
later..... Jim VE7RF
TowerTalk mailing list