[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [TowerTalk] 300 MHz Remote Switch

To: <>, "TowerTalk" <>
Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] 300 MHz Remote Switch
From: "Jim W7RY" <>
Reply-to: Jim W7RY <>
Date: Thu, 22 Dec 2011 07:56:35 -0800
List-post: <">>
Thanks... But what is the range of the remote control?

Jim W7RY

From: "Pete Smith" <>
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 5:26 AM
To: "TowerTalk" <>
Subject: [TowerTalk] 300 MHz Remote Switch

> Thanks to everyone who responded to my message recently about this
> device.  I've done a bit more reverse-engineering/testing, and thought
> the result might be of interest.  If the following writeup is
> uninteresting, click Delete now, and Merry Christmas to everyone.
> _All About the CDKZQ-8L Remote Switch_
> This unit is a very inexpensive 8-relay remote switch.It uses a 315-MHz
> radio link between the battery-powered controller and the receiver, and
> each of its 8 relays is rated to handle 20 amps at either 14 VDC or 125 
> VAC.
> The controller has 8 buttons.The first two are larger, but all appear to
> operate identically, except when programming (see below).
> You must take the receiver unit out of its plastic case to program
> it.Once you have done so, place the receiver unit so that the
> programming button and its associated LED are at the lower right.The
> eight relays are arranged like the pins on an IC, and their numbering
> follows this convention.Hence, relay 1 is at the upper left, relay 4 at
> the lower left, relay 5 at the lower right, and relay 8 at the upper 
> right.
> Each relay is SPDT/normally open, and three terminals are available for
> the user, labeled A, B, and C.B is the common terminal, A is the
> normally open side of the relay, and C is the normally closed side.
> The receiver unit requires 12V DC.DC is supplied to the 2-terminal strip
> at the top center of the unit, when positioned as above.The strip is not
> marked, but the terminal nearest the large diode next to it is "+";the
> diode will keep you from making a mistake, by blocking voltage from the
> unit if you connect it incorrectly.  One spec sheet suggests that this
> diode may also enable it to be powered by 12 VAC.  I have not tried this.
> The current drawn depends on the operating mode and, in
> latching/non-interlocked mode, on the number of relays activated
> simultaneously.With just the receiver operating, the unit draws 5.6 mA.A
> single relay raises that to approximately 56 mA, and each additional
> relay adds about 50 mA.
> _Programming_
> The receiver/relay unit can be programmed to operate in one of three 
> modes:
> 1.Latching -- press a button, and the corresponding relay is energized,
> and stays energized until the button is pressed again.
> 2.Non-latching (momentary) -- press a button, and the corresponding
> relay is energized so long as the button is pressed.Release the button,
> and the relay is de-energized.
> 3.Interlocking -- press a button, and the correspondingrelay is
> energized until another button is pushed.
> Programming is very simple.Momentarily press the programming button on
> the receiver unit.The LED next to it will light.Then press the button on
> the controller corresponding to the mode you want, as numbered above.The
> LED will flash quickly a number of times, indicating that the receiver
> has been programmed.To clear the programming and return the unit to its
> original state, press the programming button again.
> -- 
> 73, Pete N4ZR
> The World Contest Station Database, updated daily at 
> The Reverse Beacon Network at, blog at 
> spots at, port 7000 AND now
> at port 7000
> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> TowerTalk mailing list


TowerTalk mailing list

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>