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Re: [TowerTalk] G-1000DXA failure with lower mast clamp

Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] G-1000DXA failure with lower mast clamp
From: Ian White GM3SEK <>
Reply-to: Ian White GM3SEK <>
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2011 08:11:06 +0000
List-post: <">>
>>From: Barry N1EU
>>Yup, I'll go with Loctite (instead of anti-seize) and Nord-Lock 
>>lockwashers.  I'd also go with a bolt head securing system, but I'm 
>>not about to drill bolt heads and I don't see M8 bolts being available 
>>drilled heads.

Take care to use the right grade of Loctite. The blue liquid 242/243 
should be fine for the three undamaged holes, as it is designed to be 
released with hand tools.

>>I've purchased several lengths of M8 bolts in 5mm increments and will
>>use the longest bolts that will fit.

For the fourth hole that doesn't have so much "meat" around it, how 
about reversing the bolt so that the head is inside? You would then have 
a protruding stud which can be used with a nyloc nut. To prevent the 
screw from rotating when removing the nut, use a stronger "permanent" 
grade of Loctite (red or green).

And always: before using Loctite, carefully de-grease both threads using 
solvent and a cotton bud.

Bryan Swadener wrote:
>And, when it's time to remove said bolts, the threadlocker can be 
>released with heat.  I use Loctite 242 high-strength threadlocker in HP 
>automotive applications, and it releases with heat from a propane torch. 

That is surprising, as Loctite 242/243 is designed for cold disassembly 
using hand tools only - just a little more torque to break the adhesive 
bond. (It's normally only the stronger red/green grades that need to be 
broken down by heat.)

>If that doesn't work, I use a profane torch. ;)

Aided by a small sacrifice of blood?


73 from Ian GM3SEK

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