McMaster Carr sells high strength threaded rods in several alloys, ASTM
A354 BD grade 8 (150ksi) to 1 1/2" x 6tpi, ASTM A192 Grade B7 (125ksi)
to 2" x 4 1/2tpi (!!), 410 SSASTM A193 Grade B6 (110ksi), even some
smaller sizes in Hastelloy and Monel if you have a really fat wallet.
3' of the 1 1/8" x 7tpi A192 sells for $23.43.
McMaster is a fantastic supplier of everything your hardware store
doesn't have. In stock. Great web site. Same day shipping. But, you
need to spend a lot to get their catalog or buy a used one on ebay. (no
affiliation, just buy a lot from them).
On 4/15/2012 9:44 PM, K8RI wrote:
> On 4/15/2012 10:39 PM, Mike wrote:
>> That's what I was thinking as well. I have seen people cut off and weld the
>> three LM-470 bolt Ears to a US-Towers "T-Base" which works, but I do not
>> understand what this is about.
> "My thoughts!":
> The bolt head, J, flag, or plate only needs to be big enough to prevent
> the anchor from turning, pulling out, or over stressing that small area
> of concrete. I think J-bolts are by far the cheapest and easiest to
> make if you do-it-yourself.
> As for "All Thread" which is plain old threaded rod, isn't it a bit soft
> to use? I've never seen it except in ungraded strength. I've been
> planning on using 1" or 1.25" bolts, 3 feet (give or take and boy are
> they heavy!) long with a 1/4" X 6 X 6 or even 4 X 4 flat plate welded on
> the bottom and a couple of 1/4" thick ears welded on the sides at the
> base for my projects. The thing about hard bolts is they rust more
> easily so they have to be protected. You can also tape the threaded
> portion that goes through the base. I'll be using a separate base so the
> plans call for the bolts to be installed in the base which will then be
> lowered over the hole. The base needs to be leveled and secure before
> the concrete is poured and care used to completely encase the bolt heads
> in concrete with no voids. Protect the threads to allow for re leveling
> the base and removing the base after the concrete has cured. Use Tape,
> Saran Wrap(TM) or what ever comes to mind. Then warm them up to about
> 50C and liberally coat them with thinned tar. If necessary recoat with
> tar about twice as thick as the original coat. If the bolts are clean,
> dry, and fairly warm (or hot) the tar will uniformly adhere and not come
> off. it stinks but it works. Also you can get the nuts off if you ever
> need to. Just don't heat them enough to take the temper out which is
> really hot.
> Undoubtedly there are others on here who have alternate methods of
> protecting the base hold down bolts.
> Roger (K8RI)
>> Mike, K6BR
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: email@example.com
>> [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org] On Behalf Of Dave Hachadorian
>> Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 7:29 PM
>> To: Towertalk reflector
>> Subject: Re: [TowerTalk] Anchor bolts for LM470
>> So how are you guys using anchor bolts on an LM470? Has someone designed an
>> LM470 mounting plate that fits on anchor bolts?
>> Normally the LM470 mounts on a special base section that is buried in
>> concrete. If you want to move the tower, you have to buy another base
>> section from the factory. What are you guys talking about?
>> Dave Hachadorian, K6LL
>> Yuma, Arizona
>> TowerTalk mailing list
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